Gallery » EUROPE/AFRICA/ MIDDLE EAST » Round the World 2018 - South Africa » Kruger National Park 2018 » Detailed Daily Diary
Friday, 21 September: Our flight into Skukuza was delayed approximately one hour so we landed at Skukuza at 11:40A. We quickly went to the Avis desk in the event others had car rentals too. As usual, most individuals flying in were met by lodge representatives. Irrespective, it was a good idea as two other couples eventually were queueing for cars. Once we picked up our car, a Kia Picanto, we headed to the Skukuza Rest Camp Store to buy a few items we would need for the night. We had planned to drive to Hazyview the following day to buy groceries for our remaining nine nights. However, staff told us that due to Monday’s holiday (South African Heritage Day), they feared the crowds would lead to delays in re-entry to the Park. So, we changed our plans and headed immediately to Hazyview. As we left the Paul Kruger Gate, we spoke with the gatekeepers to see if they thought we could make the drive there & back before the gate and our camp (Pretoriuskop) would close at 6P. The individuals said we should have enough time, especially if we returned via the Phabeni Gate. So, off we went! The roads were very crowded with lots of small buses shuttling kids back from school. We made it to Hazyview in about 45 minutes and then Lindy stayed with the car while Ed did shopping in the mall that we’ve stopped at on prior trips. The place was an absolute zoo – we assume due to the upcoming holiday – so the shopping was maniacal. Ed made a couple of trips – one to buy wine and another to buy food – and we finally left the shopping center at about 3:30P.
The return drive was hectic on the R536 until we reached the turn off for Phabeni which thankfully was well sign-posted. There were no other cars entering through the gate so we showed our entry permit and were quickly inside. Afterwards we took the gravel S3 road toward Camp. En route, we saw a lovely Red-crested Korhaan. Then, the real treat – seeing a Sable in the brush! It was difficult to see its whole body but we got a great look and great photographs of its lovely face and enormous horns. Wow, what a treat as you can search for these antelope for days and they are only found in this area of the park.
We continued on to Pretoriuskop and settled into our cottage. Then, Ed prepared a delicious dinner. As usual, we began with an icy G&T along with carrots and dip and then we enjoyed a main course before retiring after a long and full day.
Saturday, 22 September: We were up early and out of Camp by 7:00A. We started our day by driving the gravel H2-2 from Camp towards Afsaal – a stop where you can get out and stretch. Initially, we were doing mostly birding as the morning was overcast and cool. Interestingly, we had never seen any evidence of Rhino in this part of the park but we saw lots of “Rhino toilets” along the road. This is a place where a male Rhino marks his territory to warn males to stay away and invite females to join him. We didn’t see any Rhino but we now know they are in this part of Kruger.
After a break at Afsaal, we continued on the H2-2 to the S114. Along the way we saw our first Wildebeest. They were very close to the road which made photography really nice. We took the S114 north to the S23/S13. Along that route we came across a group of Southern Ground Hornbill, a treat since this is an endangered species. They had a chick with them. You can tell the difference because the adults have a red face/throat while the young have a beige one. When we left this area, we returned to the main paved north/south road in Kruger, the H3. We had never seen so much traffic so it definitely was a holiday weekend.
We stayed on the H3 until reaching the H1-1, the paved route back to Pretoriuskop. We spotted a small antelope, a Klipspringer, sitting on a group of rocks. It’s so tiny! As we went farther along the route, there was a group of female Elephants on both sides of the road. We were amazingly close to a female and a youngster on our side of the road. We could hear them eating as they stripped leaves from the trees. Then we pulled forward to get shots of three large Elephants taking refuge under a tree. Wow! Afterwards we made two of our usual stops at waterholes – Transport and Shitllhave. Transport came first and it was very productive! There was a group of Elephants drinking and playing in the water. There was also a large group of Hippo as well as some Impala and Zebra. At Shitllhave, we found one Hippo enjoying the water as well as a majestic Fish Eagle on the shore. As we continued to Camp, we found two separate Zebra groups. They are so lovely!
It was now 2P and time to return to Pretoriuskop for the day after a 5.5 hour game drive that was very, very productive.
Sunday, 23 September: Today was a game viewing/transfer day as we made our way to Olifants Rest Camp. We were headed farther north into Kruger Park and hoping that some of the holiday visitors would remain in the south. The day began with amazing sightings. First we drove to Shitllhave off the H1-1. There was a lovely Grey Heron sitting in a tree. Then a group of Waterbuck and Zebra came to drink. It’s always a treat to see these creatures even though they are quite common.
As we continued on the H1-1 towards Skukuza, a big WOW! There was a pair of Hyena with their cubs that were all out of the den which was just off the road. We were able to watch the family for about 30 minutes at an amazingly close distance. We didn’t think we could top that until we next saw a female Rhino with its calf grazing near the road. The grasses along the road were very thick so it was difficult to photograph them but we had success ultimately.
We next drove into the Transport waterhole and, guess what…. A lone male Rhino. We initially saw it sitting in the water. Then, it emerged and we got a great shot of it – half wet and half dry. Really amazing to have two Rhino encounters in one day!
After passing Skukuza and driving the H4-1 before the turnoff to Satara, we saw a group of Elephants going to the Lower Sabie to drink. As we turned north on the H1-3, our next sighting was a group of Elephants relaxing in the shade of a tree. It was now mid-day and very hot at 30C. Our next sighting was a group of Giraffe. Among them was a very young Giraffe who was so small in comparison to its mother. We had to pause as a group of Zebra crossed the road. Then, we came upon a group of parked cars which in Kruger usually means a cat has been spotted. In this instance, it was two young male Lions who were about 1km off the road. We got shots but they are a bit fuzzy due to the distance, dust and heat.
We continued north and got out of the car (it’s allowed) on the bridge crossing the Olifants River. The views were beautiful and there were animals enjoying the lush grass and water including Impala and Elephants.
Afterwards we went directly to Olifants Rest Camp, our home for the next five nights. The Camp sits on a hill overlooking the Olifants River. Although we had visited the camp, this was our first overnight stay. We booked a cabin on the perimeter which provided a great view of the Olifants River and you could also hear the flowing water as well as the cranky Hippos. It was the perfect place to enjoy the next five nights.
Monday, 24 September: This is South African Heritage Day, a holiday for most individuals in South Africa except those involved with hands-on tourism. We left camp at 7:30A and headed north to Letaba on the unpaved S44/S46. There were very few cars – and none going north – so we took our time and enjoyed all the pull-outs along the Letaba River which joins the Olifants River farther south. Our first sightings were of antelope – a Kudu and a Waterbuck. Then we saw a Great Egret sitting on the edge of the Letaba River.
Our next sighting was a group of Baboon on the move. They were headed towards the river so perhaps it was time for a drink. We then photographed a beautiful Baobab tree, not a common sight in this part of Kruger. It is called the Von Wielligh’s Baobab because G.R. Von Wielligh and his companions set up their camp number 19 under the tree. Von Wielligh was one of the original surveyors in the area and he carved his name on the tree in 1891.
We then did a bit of birding – photographing a Lilac Breasted Roller and a Yellow Hornbill. Then, we came across our first Elephants. They were two males, one being much older with larger tusks. Both were calm but the older male was very camera shy. That being said, we did get one shot of him out in the open. Afterwards, we saw more Waterbuck, including a male with those great horns. Then, we found a shy Giraffe.
Next, we came upon a huge male Elephant. We were able to get a quick photograph because he wasn’t calm like the other individuals. As we rounded the corner, we came upon our third sighting of Elephants. This time it was a female group with young. Perhaps the nearby Bull Elephant was hoping for some attention from one of the ladies. We were able to sit as the group passed us on both sides of the car. Such amazing creatures!
After our “Elephant Adventure” we saw another Giraffe in the distance. Then, we found two male Waterbuck. Both were magnificent but one had the largest horns we’ve ever seen and the spread of his horns was amazing!
We took a break at Letaba to walk around and stretch. Then, we took the paved HI-5 south back to Olifants. Our first sighting wasn’t difficult – a group of Baboons crossing the road. Afterwards we saw a pair of Southern Ground Hornbill beside the road. Then we found two female Ostrich who definitely were not shy.
We returned to Olifants Camp and went to the overlook to see what was at the river. We saw a couple of Hippo out of the water. It was somewhat surprising as it was a hot day but they obviously wanted to graze and sun for a brief period. After photographing them, we returned to our cottage where the show continued out our front window.
A SAN Parks helicopter flew down the river. We didn’t catch it the first time it went by but we did manage a quick snap when we heard it returning. Then, it was time for an animal show. First a large “Tusker” came down to the river. Instead of drinking from the river, he made his own waterhole by digging until he reached the water plateau. Once he finished drinking, he quickly disappeared into the bush. Then a Yellow Hornbill put on quite the display in a nearby tree. Lastly we enjoyed a lovely “Moon Rise” over the Olifants.
Tuesday, 25 September: We were out of camp before 7:30A. We headed south and spent a bit of time outside the car on the Olifants Bridge. There was lots of activity. The Impala herds were there in great numbers. We also saw Wildebeest and Zebra drinking from the river. Some Giraffes came to the edge of the river but were very wary and never came to drink. We also saw Waterbuck as well as a Yellow-billed Kite.
We proceeded south on the H1-4 and the turned off onto the S39 heading south. The S39 tracks alongside the Timbavati River (which is dry this time of year). We had the treat of seeing three Buffalo at a waterhole. Then we did a bit of birding and also saw a lot of Giraffe and Zebra. We took a break at the Timbavati picnic area. Afterwards we took the bumpy S127 across to the H1-4 and continued south to Satara to make a phone call and also check out the store.
We returned home via the H1-4. We came upon huge numbers of Zebra. We also found a large group of Elephants – females with offspring of various ages. A bit farther along the road, we found a lone male enjoying eating in the shade.
We once again stopped on the bridge over the Olifants. Despite the heat (well over 90F) there was a lot of activity. Highlights for us was photographing a Grey Heron and seeing a Giraffe drink. After leaving the bridge, we turned off on the S91/92 to reach Olifants Rest Camp via a gravel road which followed the Olifants River.
Wednesday, 26 September: We left camp early – at 7:00A – because the weather was predicted to be very, very hot and it was. Before 10:00A, it was over 30C (~90F) and by midday it was 37C (~105F). So, we had to get out early before the animals headed into the deep brush seeking shade and relief from the heat.
As we left camp, there were two herds just outside the gate – one group of Impala and the other Zebra – a nice way to begin the day. When we reached H1-5 we drove north towards Letaba. We saw three Eagles – a Fish Eagle, a juvenile Bateleur Eagle and a Brown Snake Eagle. Before reaching Letaba, we turned off on the S69. As we reached the first turn, there was a Hyena in the road. We didn’t get any photograph because it started running into the bush as soon as it heard us. Oh well, at least we got to see it.
After finishing the S69, we took H9 east towards the Phalaborwa Gate. This was a new road for us as we’ve been farther north in the park but never on this eastern road. It turned out to be a good decision in that we saw a group of Buffalo as well as a couple of groups of Elephants. The first Elephants were a group of females with tiny young in tow. The second was two males at the Masorini waterhole. In between the groups of Elephants we were in an area filled with termite mounds. It looked like miniature teepees sitting on the horizon. Most were abandoned but some might have been active.
We then took another new road – the H1-4 north heading towards Mopani. It was now very hot. However, we did spot a lone male Elephant eating under the shade of a tree. After finishing there, it crossed over the road in search of more shade. Then, we stopped at a waterhole where there was a male Waterbuck with three females. The setting was lovely so we parked and watched them.
When we reached the H1-6, we turned south to complete a circle and return to Olifants Rest Camp. As we were driving, we saw three female Ostrich walking towards a waterhole. We could only get one quick shot. We proceeded to the waterhole to look for them but it was overrun with Elephants. They were drinking from a dam as well as from a large concrete tank. The numbers were amazing!
Our final stop of the day was at a bridge over the Letaba River where you can get out of the car. Despite the extreme heat, they were some active animals. We saw a Warthog – one of the few we’ve seen in the Park. Also, there were two male Waterbuck grazing. We saw a pair of Saddle-billed Stork as well as a Brown Snake-Eagle. Then, we headed for Olifants Rest Camp and called It a day (except for game viewing from our abode).
Thursday, 27 September: Interestingly, we woke up to a grey, cool, windy morning. Yeah, a relief from yesterday’s heat! We were still out of camp by 7:00A. As we headed south on the H1-4, we stopped on the bridge over the Olifants River. We found a lone Saddle-billed Stork. We continued south until we reached the S89/90 where we turned to the east and south.
Our first sighting was a Hornbill that took us a bit of time to identify. It turned out to be a female Grey African Hornbill – the second species of Hornbill we’ve seen this trip. Then a White-backed Vulture was roosting in a tree. It was definitely not ready to fly as there were no thermals.
We finally came upon a Wildebeest with some antelope and a lone Giraffe. Afterwards we spotted a pair of Dik Dik. We could only photograph one as they bolted quickly. As we continued, we came across a lone male Elephant close to the road. A bit father, we saw a group of Elephants on the horizon. Then, we saw a gorgeous male Kudu with huge horns. He was a real treat as we had not seen a male Kudu for days.
Next, we were watching a Wildebeest that started acting a bit agitated. It would look in the distance and then move away but turn around again to look. It kept doing this so we decided something was up. Sure enough a bit farther along, we spotted a group of four Lions under a small tree. It was still cool (22C) so they were actually awake. However, we stayed with them about 30 minutes and they didn’t look like they would be going anywhere soon. It was a treat to see them and we actually got a few nice shots too.
After leaving the Lions, it was quiet. We did photograph a Purple Roller – our first. Interestingly, it’s not purple at all but brownish with white feathers above its eyes and heavily streaked underparts. We did see lots of the “usual suspects” – Zebra and Giraffe. Then, we saw the first Kori Bustard for this trip. When the S90 ended, we drove to Satara for a break. Afterwards, we drove a bit south to catch the H2. We drove it until we reached a loop road – the S12/S40. There was a waterhole but only antelope were drinking there.
It was now getting hot (the clouds cleared and it was sunny) so we headed back to Satara and then up the H1-4 to Olifants Rest Camp. As we were driving, we saw the largest herd (all female) of Waterbuck that we’ve ever encountered. We also saw a lone male Elephant that was totally wet; obviously he was trying to cool off. We again stopped on the bridge but the only animals to be seen were the Impala. As we continued north, we stopped alongside the Olifants River as there were a couple of Hippo (we believe a mother and calf) grazing there. After photographing them, we headed into Camp for the balance of the day.
Friday, 28 September: Today was a game viewing/transfer day as we made our back south to Pretoriuskop Rest Camp for our final three nights in the Kruger for 2018. It once again was a very hot day. We hit 37C (~107F) by days end. That being said, it was a productive day. We made our stop at the bridge over Olifants River. We found a Giraffe crossing the area (we assume it had already had a drink) and two male Waterbuck we had previously seen. Obviously, there were lots of Impala on both sides.
We were photographing a Fish Eagle when a Spotted Hyena crossed the road in front of us. We could only get a quick shot before it disappeared into the thick brush. Then, we saw the most Dik Dik we have ever seen. They were close to the road and weren’t too shy. We must have passed at least five of them – each being alone.
The next major sighting was a huge herd of Buffalo – probably one the largest we’ve ever encountered. We focused on photographing the mighty bulls. We then spotted a majestic Tawny Eagle. As we proceeded down the H1-3 south of Satara, we had to stop as an Elephant and Impala crossed the road. Ultimately we found that they were headed to a pool of water.
Afterwards, we found a group of parked cars which in Kruger means a cat (Lion or Leopard) has been spotted. We kept in the queue and when a safari vehicle passed, Lindy asked what had been spotted. We were told a group of Lions was under a tree across the river. We kept moving up closer across the bank to the tree but we couldn’t find the Lions. A South African family in a van pulled up beside us and asked what we had seen. We told them that we were looking for Lions and everyone pulled out binoculars. Their son found the Lions first. Then the mother passed her binoculars over to Lindy so she could spot them. Afterwards, Lindy was able to direct Ed to their location and we got a couple of shots. As typical, they were mostly asleep as it was hot and in the early afternoon.
We stopped at the Skukuza Rest Camp to pick up a couple of items at the store. Then we proceeded on to Pretoriouskop Rest Camp. On the way, we saw a baby Zebra; so adorable. Then, we stopped at Transport waterhole and there were lots of Elephants there – three separate groups. We focused on two males that were wrestling and playing in the water. At times, they were fully submerged. It was lots of fun! We continued on and stopped at Shitllhave. The usual Hippo was there but it was almost totally submerged due to the heat so we didn’t take any photographs. We continued on to Camp arriving at about 2:30P. It was definitely a full day, especially since we had to unpack and re-settle in as well as do some cooking.
Saturday, 29 September: Today we decided to head south to Bergendahl Rest Camp. We took the H2-2 gravel road in hopes of spotting Sable and/or Rhino. We didn’t have luck with either. However, we did find more mammals then when we traveled this same road on 22 September. We saw Kudu, a Duiker (small antelope) and several Giraffe. At the site of the first concrete dam in Kruger we saw Giraffe drinking along with Impala and Zebra.
After taking a break at Afsaal, we continued south on the H3 until turning off to go east on the S121. We came across a small herd of Elephant. The highlight was seeing a tiny baby. We turned south and west on the S114 and followed along the Crocodile River. There we found a huge herd of Buffalo.
We next took the S110, the gravel road into Bergendahl. We stopped by the Matjulu Waterhole, a 1km diversion, in hopes of seeing Rhino as we have found them here in the past. Instead, we found more Giraffe and Buffalo. We didn’t photograph the Buffalo as they were asleep but we did photograph some of the Giraffe.
After taking a quick break at Bergendahl Rest Camp, we proceeded north on the H3 to begin to return to Pretoriuskop Rest Camp. It was now early afternoon and it was hot so gaming became more difficult. On the H3, our only sighting was a male Kudu. Once we turned onto the H1-1 to reach Camp, it was quiet except for being held up by a couple of Bull Elephants on the side of the road. We did go to each of the waterholes at Transport and Shitllhave. At Transport, it was quiet (unlike yesterday) with only a lone Fish Eagle to photograph. At Shitllhave, there was a lone Warthog and a lone Saddle-billed Stork.
Sunday, 30 September: This was our final full day of touring in Kruger for 2018. It was very cool – 16C. Last night it got very windy and even rained. Wow; such a difference from days at 35C. We headed out of Camp on the paved H1-1. We took a loop road to see some interesting rock formation. Then, we stopped at each of Shitllhave and Transport waterholes. At Shitllhave the Hippo were present as was a Saddle-billed Stork. Due to the cool morning, the Stork was nesting on the ground. At Transport, Impala ruled. They were everywhere – both grazing and drinking.
When we reached the H3 to go north towards Skukuza, the road was blocked with cars. It took us some time but we spotted the Leopard with an Impala it had killed and taken up a tree. Photography was very difficult due to its position but we did manage enough shots to prove we saw a Leopard in Kruger. In doing so, we once again completed a “Big Five” viewing.
After a quick break at Skukuza Rest Camp, we drove along the Sabie River until we reached the Nkhulu Rest Area. We then returned back toward Skukuza. Along the route we saw a Heron, Buffalo, Waterbuck and lots of Impala that had no problem stopping traffic to cross the road.
We decided to return home via the paved S1 leading to Phabeni Gate. Before reaching the gate, we turned south on the S1. At that intersection there was a large group of Kudu, including a young male whose horns were just developing. Then, we had the treat of seeing a White-backed Vulture sitting on its nest feeding its chick by regurgitating. Simply fantastic! As we continued south, we stopped by a waterhole that was filled with Hippo. While we were sitting there a “Retired General” came down a hill to drink.
We returned to Pretoriuskop Rest Camp at 3:00P. The rest of the afternoon was consumed with showering, packing and getting ready to return to Joburg tomorrow.
Monday, 1 October: We didn’t have to return our rental car until 11:30A so we took our time on paved roads enjoying the final hours of our visit in Kruger. We went to each of Shitllhave and Transport waterholes. We saw a Fish Eagle and a male Waterbuck. We turned south towards Bergendahl but didn’t find much activity. At 11:00A we refueled the car at Skukuza Rest Camp. We then headed towards the Skukuza Airport and came upon a “cat” roadblock. We turned off the car as we couldn’t move. Amazingly, three male Lions were walking alongside the road at 11:15A in the hot morning sun. Simply amazing and totally unexpected! We watched until they eventually crossed the road and went into the bush. Then, traffic magically moved and we arrived at the airport in time for our 11:30A car rental return.
In summary, another great visit to Kruger National Park. We’re looking forward to our next visit in March 2019.
