Gallery » EUROPE/AFRICA/ MIDDLE EAST » Round the World 2019 - South Africa » Kruger National Park » Detailed Diary
Sun, 11 Aug: We arrived in Johannesburg at 10:05A after leaving Madrid at 11:55P. Despite it being late, we still enjoyed a delicious dinner along with a fantastic Rioja wine. We also were able to get some well-needed rest as dinner was finished by 2:00A. Once we cleared Customs & Immigration and picked up our luggage, we walked to our home in Johannesburg, The InterContinental. It was pretty amazing that we were in our room by 11:15A after landing at 10:10A.
Once we settled in a bit, we returned to the airport to get some additional South African Rand from an ATM (the Rand was falling against the US Dollar so a good time to re-supply). Then, we went to MTN to get a SIM Card and purchase voice & data. We’ve heard from South Africans that their coverage is much better so we’ll find out on this trip. We also stopped by Woolies to get some wine, tonic & bread for dinner in the room.
Once back at The InterContinental, Ed took care of business work while Lindy repacked so that we can leave one bag plus a small rolling bag at the hotel until our return on 10 September. Afterwards, we enjoyed our dinner followed by the delicious Sherry offered to guests in Executive Rooms. Then, time for bed.
Mon, 12 Aug: We got up at 6:00A and left the hotel near 7:00A. We dropped off two bags at South African Airlink for our 10:00A flight to Skukuza. We cleared security and then went to the Bidvest Lounge to enjoy a leisurely and delicious breakfast. This was the first year Ed had an AMEX Ascend card which offers access to lounges in the Priority Pass group. It was really nice to enjoy being in the lounge together rather than Lindy going in alone and coming out with a few snacks for Ed.
At 9:15A we left the lounge in anticipation of our flight. It was interesting that was the first time since 2013 that we actually boarded via a gate. In the past, we’ve always been taken by bus to the plane. Wow, pretty nice!
We arrived at Skukuza Airport and had to wait until about 11:45A to pick up our vehicle. It was the first time we’ve rented an automatic SUV. We did so because Ken & Cathy will be joining us on Sunday, 18 August and we needed a bit more space. We cleared the parking lot by about 12:15P and headed to Skukuza. En route we saw some of the “meet & greet team” (i.e., Impala). Then, it was a great treat to see a small group of Elephants, including one small one, eating near the road. A nice way to begin this trip!
We stopped at the Skukuza Rest Camp Shop so that Ed could purchase some wine, carrots & tonic since we’re not certain how well the shop at Berg-en-dal Rest Camp is stocked. We haven’t stayed at this Camp since 2013 (during our first visit to Kruger). Then, we headed south on the H3 to reach Berg-en-dahl, our home for the next three nights.
Despite it being over 35c (or maybe because of it), the gaming was really quite good! As we came to the Kwaggaspan, there was a group of bachelor Elephants there dominating the water. It was fun to watch them jostling with one another. However, it wasn’t fun for the other nearby animals that wanted to drink. A pair of Giraffe approached the waterhole but eventually left without getting a drink. Some of the many nearby Impala actually got brave enough to dare a drink but they couldn’t stay long. We didn’t stay long enough to see the Elephants relinquish the waterhole to other animals.
As we continued south, we managed to spot a group of Buffalo. Hey, a member of the Big Five; always a treat! Photography was next to impossible due to the group being in a thicket but we still watched them for a bit.
We continued south to the Afsaal picnic area where we took a quick break and then Lindy took over the driving. We decided to take a 2km side road to the Renoster Pan. It turned out to be a great decision as there were lots of animals on the way to the waterhole – mainly Zebra and Giraffe. Then, when we reached the waterhole – a pair of Rhino; fantastic! It was really crowded but we were able to maneuver into a spot and Ed got some great photographs. It’s so nice to see these animals in Kruger!
It was now about 3:30P so we decided to head directly to Berg-en-dahl. On the 10km road into Berg-en-dahl, we saw a trio of Rhino laying in the shade. Icing on the cake! Once at Berg-en-dahl, it took a bit longer to check-in than normal as Lindy had to renew our annual Wild Card (South African Parks’ Pass). After leaving Reception, we found our perimeter abode and settled in. Ed made some carrots & dip as an appetizer and then we enjoyed some mashed potatoes. It turned out to be a long day as we didn’t get to bed until after 10:00P.
Tue, 13 Aug (Happy 13th): We enjoyed a quick breakfast and were out of Camp by 8:00A. We decided to explore some of the many gravel/dirt roads in the Park because the SUV was so comfy! Ed was the first driver. We took the back road from Berg-en-dahl to Matjulu waterhole. It was amazing as there wasn’t an animal in sight! Perhaps it was cool so maybe the creatures were still grazing. Just as we left a group of Impala was arriving. We then took the S120 to the H3. It was a “kudu” kind of day with us finding three separate groups of female Kudu (one group did include a young male with tiny horns). Once on the H-3, we went north to the S118 where we drove east. At the Ampie waterhole, the place was full of Impala drinking. When we reached the S114, we went north and again passed a waterhole full of Impala. We then took the H2-2 towards Afsaal.
Again, we changed drivers. Lindy began driving south on the H3. We again stopped at Renoster Pan but there wasn’t as much action as on the prior day. We did see Giraffe, a herd of Wildebeest, Ellies and a Red-crested Korhaan, a beautiful bird. Afterwards, we went out of Kruger and headed to the town of Malelane to go to Tops/Spar for supplies. We took a bit of a scenic route (i.e., we got a little lost but eventually we figured it out). After shopping, we returned back into the Kruger. On way back to Camp, there was a male Lion asleep on the side of the road just off the pavement. All we could get was a “paw” shot. We did see a good-sized group of Buffalo we believe were headed to water.
We returned back to Camp at 4:00P after a full day. It was still busy as we did laundry, downloaded photos from the camera, etc. till happy hour at 7:00P. Before dinner, we enjoyed some carrots and dip with happy hour. Then for the main course, Ed prepared Garlic Parmesan Rice. Yummy! We finally got to bed at 9:00P.
Wed, 14 Aug: We left promptly at 7:45A after enjoying a leisurely breakfast. It was actually very cool this morning. We headed out of Berg-en-dahl on the main road and almost immediately we were in a “cat jam”. As we slowed to reach the group, we had a male Lion walking along the road towards us; wow! After he passed, we weren’t able to change our position as other cars sprang into the spot beside us. So, we continued a bit farther along the road and, on the opposite side, here’s another male Lion, obviously the brother of the first guy! We tried to get some photographs but it was difficult as he was walking away from us in the shrubs towards his brother. Ultimately, Ed made a U-turn and was able to get a body shot of Lion 2. Then, Ed was able to get some great head shots of Lion 2 as he sat down for a few moments. Ultimately the two came together and did what most cats do in the morning; that is, flop down and fall asleep. Before one of the brothers dropped his head, we were able to get some nice shots of both. What a way to begin the morning!
After this excitement, we decided to try the unpaved S114. Basically, we ran into lots of Impala plus several encounters with Pumba. Some were a bit shy but others let us take multiple photographs. We also saw our first group of Guinea Fowl, colorful and loud birds. When we reached the S25, we decided not to proceed along the southern border of Kruger but instead to stay on the S114 and ultimately the H2-2 to reach Afsaal. Again, it was time for Lindy to take over the wheel. We drove north and came upon a huge herd of Buffalo in a river bed. There still was some water so Ed was able to get nice shots of the Buffalo both eating and drinking. We continued north to the S13 and turned east on it. We took it to the S23 where our map showed there was a waterhole. We drove south without finding the waterhole so we then drove north on the S23. Ultimately, we found a sign for the waterhole but it had been closed (Kruger has done that in the past). So, we marked that item off our map.
We decided to head back to Berg-en-dahl as it was now after 12:00P. We did stop by Renoster Pan and again it was worthwhile. At the waterhole there was a pair of Pumba as well as a beautiful Lilac-breasted Roller. We also saw a Black & White Lapwing. Some Zebra were nearby but they were leaving the area as we left the actual waterhole. On our return out the 2km road back to the H3, we found two Rhino asleep in the shade. One did get up briefly and Ed was able to get a shot through the bushy thicket. We turned off the H3 to reach Berg-en-dahl and, guess what – a mother Rhino and her calf were also in the shade of a tree. Wow, how amazing to have back-to-back Rhino sightings?!
Once back in Camp, we stopped by the Camp Shop to pick up a few items. Then we decided to stop at the dam behind the Shop/Reception. Our timing was great as there were a group of Buffalo taking mud baths. And, drum roll please, a Rhino mom and her calf were also there taking a dip in the water!
This was an amazing day seeing Lion, Buffalo, three different Rhino groups plus lots of other animals too!
Thu, 15 Aug: Today was a transfer day to Skukuza Rest Camp, our home for the next three nights. We packed the car with our belongings and food stuffs and began the trek at 8:00A. We stopped for fuel before leaving Camp and then headed to the Matjulu waterhole. It was very quiet with no animals nearby. So, we retraced our path to access the S120 to reach the H3. Again, it was very, very quiet. We saw only one female Kudu (likely there were others) and a herd of Zebra using the road as their “giant game path”. And that was our total gaming before hitting the paved road.
As we headed north on the H3, we made a quick detour to the Ampie waterhole on the S118. Again, it was very quiet. In this area there were lots of Impala but they didn’t have any friends with them. The weather was cool so perhaps the big mammals were grazing. We returned to the H3 to continue north. We decided to once again stop at Renoster Pan. This time we saw the mother Rhino and her calf at the waterhole; a real treat again. Then, we saw a male Rhino trailing behind the pair. He didn’t even stop for water. He’s definitely waiting for her to go into estrus and be receptive of his attention.
We once again took a quick break at Afsaal before continuing north. We decided to stay on the H3 so that we could have time to travel along the Sabie River before going back to Skukuza to check-in. We did come across a group of Elephants enjoying a lunchtime snack. We passed the Kwaggaspan waterhole just off the H3 and it was also quiet. Today was definitely not for gaming at waterholes!
Once we reached the turnoff to the Lower Sabie, the H4-1, we ran into a few more cars. It was interesting because most of the time we had the road to ourselves. “Baboon Bridge” (as we call it) was a real mess with cars parked on both sides. It was a bit bizarre as there were no herds of animals (Ellies, Wildebeest, Zebra) in the area; perhaps people were just enjoying the view. Anyway, we crossed the bridge and then immediately went back across (thankfully some of the parked cars had moved) to continue on beside the Lower Sabie River.
The number of Impala was mind-boggling. We’ve never seen so many! Apart from being careful while driving (yes, they do dart across the road), our key sighting on this road was a female Lion. She was asleep under a tree in a bunch of grass. It didn’t make for great photography but it nevertheless was a good sighting.
Afterwards we headed to Skukuza. We did see a lone Giraffe as we returned as well as loads and loads of Impala.
We arrived in camp and were at our riverside bungalow by 2:30P. However, it took a bit of time to unload the car and settle in. So, about 3:30P we took to check on some financial data. At 4:00P it was time for a shower. At 5:00P, Ed began cooking dinner. He made a delicious dip to go with carrots. While Ed did this, Lindy downloaded today’s photographs and worked on this diary. At 5:30P, that task was complete and we stopped to enjoy a cold Hansa beer (we enjoyed it but it was a cool evening). Ed continued making dinner which was mac & cheese; who doesn’t love that! We enjoyed a nice bottle of South African wine (Big Five) along with dinner and then it was time to retire.
Friday, 16 Aug: We woke up to a very cold morning – probably about 18c; burr! We had our coffee and toasted cheese breakfast sandwiches wearing our jackets. We left Skukuza at 8:00A and headed south on the H3. We stopped briefly and took photographs of a lone Giraffe getting ready to cross the road. Next we stopped at the Nhlanganeni waterhole at the perfect moment. There was only one other vehicle there and the place was loaded with Zebra and Buffalo. We enjoyed seeing these animals together. We left after 3-4 of the outside safari vehicles arrived as it got noisy and the setting wasn’t as nice.
We took the H1-1 to Pretoriuskop Rest Camp. En route, we stopped at Transport. It too was full of animals. There were Elephants, Zebra, Wildebeest, Impala, Hippos and a lone male Waterbuck. As we approached the dam, we had to drive through a herd of Impala making their way to the water. It was fun to see them when they finally arrived as they pranced to reach the water.
Once back on the road, another treat. We saw a Brown Snake Eagle sitting on the top of a tree. It was so majestic!
We continued our drive and took the turnoff to Naphe Boulders. It’s amazing how these two tiny boulders sit atop a huge rock pile. On the way out of the loop road, we came across a group of male Kudu; they are so beautiful. We also saw a group of Zebra.
We next stopped at Shitlhave Dam. The water was the lowest we’ve ever seen. There was a lovely Grey Heron there and the always reliable Waterbuck. The male was sitting while his harem of females was foraging. It was fun to watch them.
We took a quick break at Pretoriuskop and Lindy took over the driving. We looked for Sable without success. It was now near 11:00A so perhaps they had moved back into the thicker brush. We saw a lone female (we think) Wild Dog sleeping in the road. It was interesting that we couldn’t spot any partners.
At the waterhole known as the “First Concrete Dam”, there were lots and lots of Elephants. Getting a view was difficult as the area was pretty full of vehicles. We could hear lots of vocalization and it appeared that different groups were there as some would leave and others would arrive. There was a herd of Zebra waiting for their turn. It looked like it would be a while.
We again took a break at Afsaal – a stretch is always a good thing to do. We went a few miles south on the H3 to reach Renoster Pan. There was a huge Bull Elephant right beside the road. Thankfully he was in good humor so we were able to photograph him. Interestingly, he wasn’t too far away from two Rhino – a mother and calf – taking an afternoon siesta.
Afterwards, we began the trek back home. We stopped at an unnamed river where there was a group of Elephants drinking from the remaining water there. It was interesting to see a large female butt some of the younger Elephants out of the way so that the two tiniest Elephants could get a drink. It’s like watching a mother get her 12 year old out of the way for her 3 year old.
Finally, as we were crossing the bridge near the De LaPorte waterhole, there was another group of Elephants. Most were dust-bathing but several were digging into the sand and getting water. This will, of course, help other animals when the Elephants leave.
Afterwards we returned to Skukuza. We made a quick stop at the Skukuza Shop and then returned to our abode for the night.
Sat, 17 Aug: We were out of camp at 7:30A. It was 17c so it was another cold night. We decided to drive the H4-1 from Skukuza along the Sabie River. It turned out to be a great choice as there were amazing numbers of Ellies enjoying the Sabie. Then, we had a real treat – a pair of Spotted Hyena was just alongside the road so we were able to get some great shots of them albeit they were on the move.
We crossed the Sabie on the H1-2 (“Baboon Bridge”) to reach the H1-3 and headed towards Tshokwane Picnic Area. It was very quiet; not even many Impala. We did find one group of Zebra & Wildebeest. We stopped at Tshokwane and changed drivers. Then we went south to the H10 towards Lower Sabie Rest Camp. We turned off to go to the Orpen Dam. Wow, it was so low; we’ve never seen so little water in it. There were quite a few Crocodile there but not the usual Hippo. Obviously, they had moved to an area with more water.
We returned to the H10 and headed south. We decided to turn East on the S128. It turned out to be a one-lane road in terrible condition. The only thing was saw was several Lilac-breasted Rollers. So, once we reached the S129, we returned back to the H10. We realized that this is the driest time we’ve witnessed in the Kruger. To see animals, you must be near a water source like a river or waterhole. We’ll plan accordingly for the balance of the trip.
We pulled into the Lower Sabie Rest Camp at 11:30A and it was a zoo. Vehicles were parked everywhere with more looking for parking spaces. We headed towards the camping area and turned the car around and parked there. We were able to get out of the car and stretch. Then, we began the trek back to Skukuza on the H4-1.
Again, there were lots of Elephants by the Sabie River. Also, there were tons of Impala crossing the road at different spots. Among one herd of Impala we spotted a Bushbok and took time to photograph it. We also had the pleasure of seeing a Hippo feeding out of the water.
Afterwards, we made our way through several traffic jams. If anyone stops, all the cars stop on the assumption something has been spotted like one of the cats. We didn’t see anything and since it was now past 12:00P, any cat was likely asleep. So, we finished our drive and returned back to camp a bit early in anticipation of packing up tomorrow and being joined by Ken & Cathy.
Sun, 18 Aug: We packed up and left Skukuza Rest Camp at 8:00A. We took the road leading to the Paul Kruger gate and then turned south on the S65. We initially did a bit of birding as we saw two different White-backed Vultures. Then we came across a group of Buffalo; another treat! We stopped at the Nwaswitshaka waterhole and the place was teaming with wildlife. We enjoyed watching a Hippo with a Terrapin (Turtle) on its back. Then, what happens but a Hyena walks right by the car?! We even got a photograph of it. Then some beautiful male Kudu came to the waterhole. Wow, they were gorgeous!
When we left the waterhole and continued south, we had to pause while a male Elephant held the road hostage. He was displaying his “fifth leg” so he was definitely in control. When we reached the H1-1, we decided to make a quick stop by Transport Dam.
We were waiting at the Skukuza Airport when Ken & Cathy arrived at 2:10P. While Lindy helped Ken obtain an entry permit, Ed & Cathy waited for luggage to be offloaded. When the paperwork was done and luggage collected, we left headed towards Skukuza. Our first sighting was a Crocodile as we crossed over a causeway. We didn’t stop in Skukuza but headed south on the H3 towards Pretoriuskop Rest Camp. We stopped to watch a group of Elephants near the road. We also saw a beautiful Lilac-breasted Roller. Then, the highlight of the afternoon was seeing a group of Rhino – three adults and one calf! They were also in a fairly open area so we were able to get some great photographs!
We turned on the H1-1 and made a stop at Transport. It wasn’t too busy but we did see a Hippo as well as Zebra drinking. We left Transport and came up to a group of cars. We feared it might be a “cat jam” but it turned out that a Hyena family was using a road culvert as a denning spot. The cubs were just barely out of the den but we did manage a shot. We made a quick detour by Naphe Boulders since it’s such an unusual formation. Then, it was time to head to Pretoriuskop before the gates closed at 6:00P.
We checked in and had bungalows next to one another. Everyone took quick showers and then Ed prepared “Texas Risotto” (i.e., spicy beans & rice). Ken & Cathy were very tired from the journey so after a hearty meal accompanied by a nice red wine (“Balance Shiraz”) it was time for bed.
Mon, 19 Aug: Ken & Cathy joined us at our bungalow at about 7:30A for toast and tea. Then, it was time to begin our journey to Olifants Rest Camp. We left Pretoriuskop on the unpaved H2-2. We looked for Sable without success. As we continued, Ken spotted a Lion walking parallel to the road. It was a great spot! We didn’t get any photographs but we were able to drive alongside the Lion until it went deeper into the bush. What a great way to start the morning! We had a stop at the “First Concrete Dam” and watched some Ellies drink. Afterwards, we headed to Afsaal for a quick break before continuing on our journey.
As we headed north on the H3, we ran into a “cat jam” with cars parked on both sides of the road. We were really, really lucky in that a Leopard crossed the road in front of us and went over to a dead tree to stretch. Ken & Ed were able to get great photographs. Then, the Leopard continued up the road in the direction it had come from. Both Ken & Lindy could see a Leopard but it wasn’t till Lindy said something about it standing up when Ken said the Leopard was laying down. That’s when we realized there were two Leopards there! Lindy decided to push through traffic and the guys were able to get a shot of the second Leopard standing. Wow, what a treat! As we had a long journey, we didn’t linger to see when the two united.
We made a stop at the De LaPorte waterhole which turned out to be productive. There were Giraffe drinking there and a Pumba who wasn’t the least bit shy. As we left De LaPorte, Cathy saw something on the right-hand side of the road. We turned back and found she had spotted a lone Buffalo! Great, a “Big Five” member!
We took a long stop at Skukuza Rest Camp so that everyone could take a break and Ken & Cathy could do a bit of shopping for souvenirs from Kruger National Park. We then continued north on the H1-2/H1-3. We took time for photographs when crossing the Sabie River; it’s too beautiful not to stop. As we reached the area near Satara Rest Camp, we begin to see herds of animals – Buffalo, Wildebeest and Zebra. We also spotted Ostrich as well as a Kori Bustard, the largest flying bird in Kruger. Our final stop of the day was taking a break on the bridge over the Olifants River. It was a beautiful afternoon and there was lots of game – Baboons, Waterbuck, Impala, etc.
We drove up the hill to reach Olifants Rest Camp. We weren’t able to get adjoining cabins due to a fire at a unit earlier in the year. So, we drove Ken & Cathy to their abode and coordinated to meet for dinner at the restaurant at 6:00P. We then went to our abode and settled in before walking to the restaurant. We all enjoyed a great meal while sitting on the outdoor patio sipping red wine. Afterwards, we went our respective ways to enjoy a good night’s rest.
Tue, 20 Aug: We picked up Ken & Cathy in the SUV and then we drove to the Camp’s restaurant. Ken & Cathy had breakfast while Lindy enjoyed a coffee (Ed opted out). We then began the drive to Orpen Gate as we were headed to Chitwa Chitwa in the Sabi Sands. We didn’t stop for photographs but did enjoy gaming nevertheless. When we left the Gate, we followed the directions provided by management at Chitwa Chitwa. At the town of Acornhok, there was a terrible mess with construction followed by a road that was mostly potholes. We attempted to follow the written directions but ended up lost. Thankfully, locals helped us and then Ken used Goggle to get directions to the Gowrie Gate. Although we left in time to arrive for the 1:00P lunch, we didn’t reach Chitwa Chitwa until 2:30P. Thankfully, we made it in time for our first afternoon game drive. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE OUR CHITWA CHITWA PAGE.
Sun, 25 Aug: After enjoying a fantastic time at Chitwa Chitwa (including an abbreviated morning game drive today), it was time for Ken & Cathy to make their way back home. We all took a “to go” breakfast and headed out. Thankfully, we had spoken to staff members who told us the correct way to get to/from Chitwa Chitwa. Basically, it was a very easy drive with limited time on a gravel road before we reached the tarred road to Orpen Gate. Once on that road, we turned away from Kruger and towards Klaserie. From there we went north on the H40 and had Ken & Cathy at Eastgate Airport near 10:30A. Unfortunately their flight was delayed but not so delayed that it would affect their international flights. The airport has been upgraded tremendously since our last visit there in 2013 so there were plenty of places to have a coffee or snack and relax so we didn’t feel like we were abandoning them.
After saying goodbye to Ken & Cathy, we drove to the town of Hoedspruit to buy some groceries. We then retraced our route back to the road leading to Orpen Gate. We obtained our entry permit at Orpen Gate and then drove to Orpen Rest Camp to spend the night there. We did see a Duiker and some Zebra near Orpen. The Zebra were in their “BFF” pose – each resting its head on the others back. We had an early evening as we were tired from the full-day excitement of celebrating Ed’s 80th birthday on August 24.
Mon, 26 Aug: Today we were headed to Skukuza Rest Camp to spend two nights. Our goal the first day was to enjoy gaming en route to Skukuza; our goal the second day was to exchange the SUV for a smaller car, a VW Polo. When we were loading the car, Ed noticed that the right front tire was low. So, we drove to the Orpen gas station only to learn that the air dispenser wasn’t working. So, we decided to make our way slowly to Satara Rest Camp as we were told the station there had a working air dispenser. We took the H1-4 towards Satara and enjoyed some nice gaming. In particular, we got great shots of a huge Warthog as well as a majestic Lesser Spotted Eagle. We saw the usual suspects like Zebra, Impala and Wildebeest. We also saw some Ostrich.
We took a quick stop at Satara and got air put into the tire. Yeah! Now, we headed south on the H3 directly to Skukuza Rest Camp. We continued seeing lots of game, including several groups of Elephants. We particularly enjoyed seeing Ellies playing in the water at Marheya waterhole. We also saw some great waterfowl – a Hamerkop, a Black-headed Heron and a Wooly-necked Stork. Really nice!
We arrived at Skukuza and were in our abode by about 3:00P. After unloading, we were sitting at the outside table, when Ed noticed that the tire was once again almost flat. Yikes! So, we called Avis and they told us that they would arrange to have the tire repaired. So, we drove to the airport only to be told that the repair shop was at Skukuza! By now, we were almost on the rim and had another 4km back to Skukuza. Well, we made it back and found the Avis office in Reception. Nymati was there - a fellow we've rented from before - and he showed us how to access the hidden repair shop. We had to wait about an hour as there were two other cars being repaired. Ultimately, we learned that the tire had already been plugged once and that was how it was repaired again - another plug. It's amazing that the original plug held on some of the nasty roads we drove outside the park. Thankfully for us, no more worries as we’ll be exchanging the car tomorrow. After getting back to our abode, we were ready for a stiff gin & tonic and followed by dinner and bed.
Tue, 27 Aug: This morning we decided initially to go south of Skukuza on the H3 and we stopped at De LaPorte waterhole. We enjoyed watching a lone male Buffalo drinking at the waterhole. Afterwards, we continued south and went to Transport Dam. There we saw large numbers of Zebra and Impala drinking. There was also a group of female Kudu who wanted to drink but were somehow frightened and backed away from the dam; too bad for them. Also at the dam we watched a Fish Eagle sitting on the bank eating some small meal; we didn’t see him fish but perhaps he did just before we arrived. Then we returned to the H3 to continue farther south to the Kwaggaspan waterhole. On the way back north towards Skukuza, we enjoyed a real treat – a female Rhino with a tiny calf. We only had them in view for a short while as they headed deep in the brush. Again, it was a thrill! We again stopped at the De LaPorte waterhole. This time the place was dominated by Impala plus some beautiful female Kudu. It was a treat watching everyone enjoy some fresh water. Then we went into Skukuza Rest Camp for a quick break before continuing on to the Skukuza Airport to exchange our Nissan SUV for a small, manual VW Polo. After doing that, we drove the H1-2 beside the Sabie River. We saw a lot of Elephants returning back to the bush after enjoying the river. We also saw quite a few Giraffe in this area. Eventually we crossed the Sabie to reach the H4-1 and returned to Skukuza. We love the views from the Sabie as we cross over it. The river is amazing – its beauty and what is gives to the animals. When we arrived back in Skukuza, we did some shopping and then worked on finances, etc. before Ed prepared a feast of carrots & dip, a lettuce/tomato salad and mushroom rice. Then it was time to call it a night.
Wed, 28 August: Today was a travel day as we headed north to Olifants, our home for the next two nights. We were packed and left camp at 8:00A. We decided to drive east along the Sabie River to the Lower Sabie Rest Camp before heading north. It turned out to be a good decision as the road wasn’t too crowded and the gaming was good. Our first encounter was a small herd of Buffalo that had just finished drinking from the river. As we continued our drive, we came across a group of Southern Ground Hornbill that included a juvenile. It was very interesting to us because we’ve never seen Southern Ground Hornbill in this area before. Our next sighting was a group of Kudu, including one magnificent male. He actually cooperated a bit and we were able to get some nice photographs. Our last encounter along this route was a pair of Giraffe. One was quite shy but the other paused when crossing a gravel road so we did get a photograph.
We took a quick break at the Lower Sabie River and Ed took over the driving. We headed north on the H10 towards Satara and then onto Olifants. This area is a beautiful grassy area that also has some mountains on the eastern side. We saw a large group of Zebra as we began on the route. On an aside, we saw tons of Zebra on the route – most being in small groups of 10-15 individuals. However, as the grasses became sparser, the groups were spread out so each member had enough grazing space.
We finally encountered our first Ostrich since we returned back into the Kruger from Chitwa Chitwa. They were a group of three females off in the distance. We did get a few shots but nothing special. While we were passing through a rocky area we did get to see, but not photograph, a Klipspringer. It’s amazing how quickly these antelope move through the rocks and boulders. Anyway, it was great seeing one! We then came upon two female Giraffe. One was not shy so we got some great photographs of her.
We stopped at the Muntshe waterhole. There we once again saw a Black-headed Heron using the back of a Hippo as its perch. It’s amazing that these birds have figured out that they can get a better view from the back of the Hippo. Obviously, the Hippo hardly notices the tiny weight on its back.
When we arrived at Mlondozi waterhole, there was a huge male Elephant taking a mud bath and then drinking. We sat and watched him. Interestingly, we heard another Elephant bugle and eventually he crossed the road and joined the other Elephant. He was definitely male so we assume since he was smaller he was joining up with the larger, older male to tutor under him.
Once we reached the H1-3 we turned north at Tshwokane Picnic Area. We didn’t take a break but continued our drive. We saw a huge gathering of Vultures both in the sky and landing in the distance. We assumed there was a kill. Interestingly, a South African gentleman told us there was a small pan with some water remaining and the Vultures were taking turns bathing. Seems bizarre but since we couldn’t spot a kill, we’ll assume he was correct. Afterwards, we had a great time following two female Ostrich. They got closer and closer and eventually crossed the road in front of our car. It’s amazing to see their plumage with those big feathers.
As we were about 20km south of Olifants, we ran into our first “cat jam” ever in this part of the Kruger. The road was totally blocked by vehicles on both sides, including a couple of full-size buses. The cat was on our side of the road but we never saw it. Everyone had bino’s out and there was a lot of pointing but we’re not sure if anyone actually had a true sighting. We were stuck in the traffic jam for over 30 minutes. Finally, two Park employees made individuals parked on the opposite of the sighting begin to move. They went car-by-car saying you must move; you can turn around and come back, but the road must be clear for traffic. Thankfully the drivers complied! At long last we were able to escape and return to the peaceful Kruger we love. We stopped at the bridge over the Olifants and enjoyed watching huge herds of Impala graze. It was lovely!
We checked-in and got into our river view abode at about 3:00P. After unloading, we took time to enjoy watching Waterbuck on the Olifants. Then, it was time to begin dinner preparations, work on this diary, etc. About 5:30P we sat outside with a cold beer (yes, it had once again been over 30c) and enjoyed the cool evening. After dinner it was time to relax and go to sleep.
Thu, 29 Aug: We decided to go south today since the balance of our time in the Park (except for our final night) will be spent in the north. Of course, we had to stop and get out on the bridge on the H1-4 that crosses the Olifants River. It was a great morning for birding. There was a lovely pair of Saddle-billed Stork on a grassy section of the river. Then, on the opposite side there was a beautiful Marshall Eagle on the ground. After we took a quick photograph, the Eagle flew into a nearby tree. We think the latter turned out to be the best picture.
After leaving the bridge, we drove to the S39 and took it east. It was a pretty decent gravel road. When we reached the Goedgegun waterhole it was teeming with wildlife. Of course, Impala were there. But also there were Giraffe, Zebra and Wildebeest. Then, it turned out to be a “Kori Bustard” day as a pair of them walked to the waterhole. The male put on quite a display and actually ran off the Impala if they got close to the couple. We watched them drink which was definitely a slow process as they had to grab up some water in their beaks and then throw their heads back again and again. The male put on an amazing display for the female during which he raised his tail feathers. It was amazing to see; he reminded us of a turkey! We stayed and watched them for about 20 minutes before they had enough and headed back into the bush.
As we continued, we came across more groups of Wildebeest and Zebra. We also came across two male Kudu who wanted nothing to do with us so no photographs. Then, amazingly, we found another Kori Bustard in the brush. It was definitely a good day for birding. We did come across a large group of female Kudu and they were not as shy as their male counterparts. As we continued on our route, we also photographed a Lilac-breasted Roller as well as a GoAway bird.
Our next encounter was a small group of Elephants. The area was pretty sparse in terms of vegetation so we were a bit surprised to see them.
We stopped at the Piet Grobler Dam but no animals were there so we continued on. We did stop at the Timbavati Picnic Area to get out and stretch as it was now about 11:00A. We then took the S127 west towards the paved H1-4. We again saw a great deal of Giraffe on this gravel road.
When we reached the H1-4, we decided to go 16km south to Satara to do some shopping. We managed to purchase everything we need (except for perhaps an occasional cold soda or beer) for the balance of our time in Kruger. Then, we started the return journey back to Olifants.
At the Ngotoso North waterhole, we watched lots of Ellies drinking the water. It was interesting because there were two old male Elephants, one of which was definitely a “tusker” along with multiple families of females and offspring. There were some occasional grumblings/greetings but everyone got a turn at the water. The males were covered in the same mud so it was easy to differentiate them from the others. Also, they were HUGE by comparison. We spent a great deal of time watching them drink and interact with one another.
When we continued, we made an additional stop to photograph a Lappet-faced Vulture sitting alone in a tree with no leaves. It made for a great shot.
We decided to finish our trip on the back roads leading to Olifants Rest Camp. We took the S89 to the S90 and ultimately the S92 to reach the main road into Camp. We were lucky on this stretch to see a Red-crested Korhaan; another treat. To cross the Olifants River, we were able to use a causeway. There were no other cars (which was great since this a one-lane causeway) so we took time to take in the setting and also enjoy viewing a group of Waterbuck.
Once back at Camp, we filled the car with petrol in anticipation of our drive tomorrow of ~200km. Then, we enjoyed sitting outside looking at the Olifants River while enjoying an ice cold beer. Afterwards we had some dinner along with a gin & tonic. We finished the evening watching the stars as there was virtually no light pollution.
Fri, 30 Aug: Today was basically a travel day as we were enroute to our new home, the Sirheni Bushveld Camp north of Swingwedzi. We decided to leave Olifants via the S93 to take the back road to Letaba rather than the paved road. It was a fairly quiet drive, probably due to the lack of water until reaching the Letaba area. We did see several groups of Zebra and Giraffe. We also took time to photograph a “candelabra tree” – some sort of succulent.
We didn’t stop at the Letaba Rest Camp but instead went west to the paved H1-6 main road. We started pulling into each of the turnouts with views of the Letaba River. As we drove along, we stopped to photograph a Yellow-billed Crane digging in the mud for food. While Ed was using the camera to determine if there was a group of Impala or a group of Waterbuck approaching the water, Lindy looked out her window and there was a herd of Elephants. They weren’t very happy either. Ed quickly moved the car forward and the Elephants crossed right where we had been sitting. We guess they must like to cross in the same place each time!
We continued along the river and were able to photograph a Great Egret as well as a group of Waterbuck. As we reached the junction with the H1-6, we saw a lot of animals. We saw a lone female Ostrich, some Buffalo, another group of Ostrich, a Warthog and, for us, a real treat – Tsessebe (a large antelope). We were definitely in the northern section of the park!
When we turned into Mopani Rest Camp for a quick break, there was a huge Elephant – a “Tusker” – just off the road. He was busy eating and didn’t mind being photographed. We took lots of pictures of this beautiful creature. Then, we went on into the Rest Camp and stopped by the Park Shop where we had views of Pioneer Dam. When we left Mopani, that same big fellow was there; he had just moved to the shade under a tree.
We continued north and stopped at the Nkokodzi waterhole. We stopped to watch Elephants and Zebra drinking from the trough. It was a hot day and they welcomed the cool, fresh water. We continued north and then turned east onto the 3km road into Shingwedzi Rest Camp. Along the Shingwedzi River, we saw on Giraffe drinking with those long legs spread far apart. FYI, the Park uses an image of a Giraffe drinking as its symbol for waterholes on road signs. We also saw lots of other Giraffe in the riverbed and then a huge group of Hippo outside the water, including one small youngster. It was a great sighting!
After a quick break, we were anxious to continue on to reach the Serheni Bushveld Camp. It’s only 30km to the north but 10km of the final access road is unpaved. Our only other sighting was a Bateleur Eagle which we only managed to photograph as it took off.
We arrived at Serheni in the late afternoon and were given our key to cabin 3, one of the 15 cabins in this bushveld camp. We fell in love with it immediately! The cottage was very roomy and had an indoor kitchen and seating area as well as outside seating and, of course, a barbeque. It was so peaceful and quiet. We unpacked the car and settled into our new home for the next three nights. Ed prepared a big salad along with green bean pasta. Of course, we enjoyed it with a bottle of “Balance” (a wine brand) Shiraz. It was a great way to end our day and enjoy our home which had virtually no light pollution and great stargazing since the cottages were very private.
Sat, 31 Aug: We left Serheni about 7:30A and decided to take the unpaved S56 south all the way to the paved H1-7 just north of Shingwedzi. The driving was a bit slow as some parts of the road were narrow. Our first sighting of the morning was two lone Buffalo walking in the dry riverbed we were paralleling on the road. As we continued farther south, we had a great surprise. We rounded a corner and there was an area where there was still water in the river. We saw groups of Buffalo numbering in the hundreds come to the water to drink. Once they had their fill, they returned on the same path. So we saw Buffalo drinking, Buffalo in the water and Buffalo coming and going from the waterhole on the same dusty pathway. It was a great sighting and we sat and watched for 30 minutes. It was amazing to see so many Buffalo so we guess this is a primary water source for them.
When we left that area, it once again appeared very dry to us. However, we did see the usual suspects of the North – Zebra and Giraffe. We also saw a Marabou Stork.
When we reached the paved road, we headed towards Shingwedzi Rest Camp. As expected, there were lots of Giraffe in the riverbed. After our break, we went out of Shingwedzi via the small East Gate and took the backgrounds. It was a good decision as we spotted and photographed a Black-chested Snake Eagle. Beautiful! We also got a nice shot of some Crocodiles by the Shingwedzi River. We decided to make our way to Kanniedood Dam since there was some water in the Shingwedzi (in small pools) and we knew there would be water at the dam.
Our first sighting was a group of Zebra at a small pool of water. Then, we saw a lone Bull Elephant digging for fresh water in the riverbed. We had a good laugh when a mud-covered Warthog ran across the road. We saw lots of game including Zebra and a Common Duiker. We also saw a few Tsessebe. A real treat was seeing and being able to take great snaps of a Bateleur Eagle. At the dam, there were lots of Hippos and Elephants (as one would expect). As we left the area, we saw lots of Giraffe. We did stop once again just outside the Shingwedzi Rest Camp to watch three Hippo bickering with one another. We guess biting goes a long way to let another individual you’re not happy.
Since it was now late, we took the paved road back to Serheni until we had to take the gravel road the final 10km. Since we had traveled the road previously, the drive was a bit quicker. Again, we enjoyed the serenity of the Camp and Ed prepared another delicious dinner for us to enjoy. Then, time to get some rest before another day of adventure and surprise in the Kruger.
Mon, 1 Sep: This morning we left camp going north on the S56 passing Babalala. It was a “buffalo” kind of day. First we found a lone Buffalo. Then, there was a Buffalo herd as we continued north using the H1-7/H13-1/H13-2 to reach the Punda Maria Rest Camp. Our third encounter was a herd of Buffalo at the waterhole at the Rest Camp. Despite it being a cool day (20c) the Buffalo were walking into the water. After watching this group, we returned to the H1-7 and went north to see which waterholes were open.
Mashikiri is still operational but we didn’t spot any game there. Nkovakhulu was as far north as we drove and it was operational too; a group of Zebra was drinking there. On the way back, we drove slightly off the main road to reach Klopperfontein waterhole. It was great to see a big “Tusker” drinking there. We continued south using the H1-7 until we reached the turnoff for Sirheni near the Boyela waterhole.
It was a full day and we were ready for some “R & R” time once we reached the Camp. We reviewed our photographs and enjoyed seeing the shots. Then Ed prepared a delicious dinner and it was time for bed.
Mon, 2 Sep: Today was a travel day from Serheni to Letaba, our home for the next two nights. We left Serheni at 7:30A and decided to go directly to the paved H1-7 to the Boyela waterhole. It turned out to be a great decision as we were the first car at the waterhole and we got a prime viewing spot.
The place was teeming with wildlife. There were lots of Elephants and they dominated the waterhole. However, a couple of male Buffalo came in and the Elephants moved aside to let them drink. The Buffalo left the mayhem as soon as they were done. There were so many Zebra in the area, we couldn’t count them. They were hoping to get a drink but the Elephants kept them away until a group of Elephants left and they could quickly get a drink. Also in the area was a pair of Ostrich and several warthogs. A Kori Bustard came through but decided to pass on having a drink. The Zebra made the place incredibly dusty. We don’t know why but there was lots of kicking, biting and pushing of one another. At one time, there were two Zebra tussling on the ground and even the Elephants moved away while another pair of Zebra was fighting standing only on their hind legs. It was crazy!
While watching this chaos, to our surprise, a group of eight Eland came into the scene. This was the first time we had seen Eland in Kruger National Park. Wow!! We watched them as they eventually were able to drink. When they left, we decided to leave as well. We tracked them along the road for 1-2km until they went into a thicket and disappeared. Again, it was a great treat!
We stopped on the bridge over the Shingwedzi River to have a stretch since we had spent over an hour at Boyela. We continued south and encountered some Baboons as well as several Giraffe.
We decided to take the S142 to travel around the back of Mopani Rest Camp to see Pioneer Dam. It was a long road that took about two hours. Initially, we saw only two male Elephants. However, as we got father along the road, we saw a White-backed Vulture as well as several groups of Giraffe. Our next encounter was a small group of Elephants in a dry river bed. As we continued, there was another group of Elephants at a waterhole that were enjoying a mud bath. As we got closer to the Pioneer Dam, there were groups of Buffalo, Wildebeest and, of course, more Elephants.
We took a break at Mopani Rest Camp to buy our final supplies before heading into Hamilton’s Tented Camp. As we continued the drive to Letaba Rest Camp, we stopped at the Malopenyana waterhole where there were lots of Elephants. Unfortunately, there was a windmill but it wasn’t working so the trough was dry. It was so sad to watch the Elephants run to the area only to find no water. There perhaps was water in the tall concrete trough but only the larger Elephants could drink from it. The small and young were not tall enough. So, the next water source that we know of is the Letaba River, a very long walk. We intend to return tomorrow to see if the trough is somehow replenished by the dilapidated windmill.
We arrived at 3:00P in the Letaba Rest Camp. Our abode – C17 – was perfect as it was right next to the Letaba River and had a great view. We settled into our new place and by 7:00P, we were enjoying a great mac & cheese feast thanks to Chef Eduardo. Then it was time for some rest after a long day.
Tue, 3 Sep: After getting some petrol, we left Letaba and headed north on the H1-6. There was a bit of a traffic jam so we asked a parked vehicle what had been spotted. The man told us that a pair of Lions was mating in the area but he had not been able to spot them for the last 30 minutes. He pointed out their last known location and told us to take his spot. We did position the car where his had been but we couldn’t find the Lions. We believe they had probably moved farther away from the road. Since we have seen Lions mating the past in very close proximity, we moved on. Others decided to wait it out.
As we went north, we stopped in the many pull-outs along the Letaba River. We were able to photograph a Goliath Heron on the edge of the water. When we stopped on the bridge over the Letaba, we photographed another Goliath Heron as well as a Black-headed Heron. It was a beautiful setting which we took the time to enjoy. We also enjoyed watching Buffalo and a lone Elephant grazing a bit farther north.
We did drive to the Malopenyana waterhole and it was just as dry so this place is definitely closed. Thankfully, the Elephants had all moved on. We did get a treat of seeing two separate Kori Bustard attempting to get a drink. Evidently, they didn’t get the word that the place was out of service. Oh well, all the animals seem to learn quickly when a water source is no longer there. We also saw a Black-backed Jackal crossing the area. We could only manage a few shots when it paused briefly before trotting away.
We decided to continue north and make a loop back to Letaba on paved roads. We went north to the H14 and then turned south on it. We ran into lots of different groups of Zebra and Giraffe. We crossed the Letaba River on a causeway which had very little flow and thus no animals. We continued on the H14 until the “T” at the H9. We turned west to visit Sable Dam. There was lots of water in the dam. When we pulled into an area near an overnight hide, there was a group of Baboons there. Interestingly, one large male was eating a Spring Hare. You could hear him tearing the flesh and crunching the bones. Another male appeared to also have a piece of the Hare. It was very interesting as we don’t know if the Baboons could kill such a fast animal or if they were scavengers and found it dead. Also, we didn’t realize the Baboons were flesh-eaters.
We turned back towards Letaba and stopped at a rocky area near the Masorini picnic area. To our delight, a Klipspringer was out on top of the rocks. We were able to get some great photographs before the individual scampered away across the rocks.
We continued our drive and stopped by the Nhlanganini Dam. It too had lots of water although it obviously holds a great deal more during wet season. We were able to see Hippo in and out of the water but no other animals or birds were there drinking.
Our last sighting of the day was a group of Southern Ground Hornbill. They were tough to photograph as they kept moving while foraging. However, we did manage a few shots.
We returned to Camp after 2:00P and took time to do a bit of business work while we have cell phone service. Then it was time to clean-up from the dusty drive. We also began packing in anticipation of our travel tomorrow to Hamiltons Tented Camp in the Imbali Game Reserve adjoining Kruger National Park.
Wed, 4 Sep: We had previously arranged to arrive at Hamiltons Tented Camp at 1:00P. So we left Letaba Rest Camp at 8:00A to enjoy gaming until we needed to be at Hamiltons. On our way south the morning began with a female Lion sighting. She was deep in the brush relaxing in the shade but she was awake and we did manage to photograph her. It was a great start to the day!
We did take a quick break to get out of the car at the bridge over the Olifants. We didn’t take any pictures as there were only Impala and Baboons in the area and we previously had photographed them. As we made our way towards Satara, the herds of Zebra and Wildebeest magically appeared. Also, there were lots of different groups of Giraffe. It was hot (30c) before 11:00AM so we felt lucky that the animals were still out and about. We also saw a lone male Elephant.
The highlight of the morning was seeing a Rhino mom and calf about 15km north of Satara. There was also a male Rhino present but we didn’t get any photographs of him. We were so excited as this was the first time we had seen Rhino in this part of the Kruger!
We took a break at Satara to send a brief message to Ken & Cathy to find out about Hurricane Dorian as we will have no cell phone reception while at Hamiltons Tented Camp. Then we continued our journey. We came across a large group of Southern Ground Hornbill. They were on the move so photography was difficult but it was good to see such numbers.
At 11:30AM, we arrived at the S125 road we would use to access Hamiltons. We drove slowly as we had extra time. We stopped to photograph Giraffe. We also went to a waterhole to find it closed. However, we did see a group of three Southern Ground Hornbill. It’s quite unusual to see multiple groups of Southern Ground Hornbill in a single day
We turned onto the S36 to reach the access road for Hamiltons. We arrived at Camp at 12:50; perfect. SEE THE HAMILTONS TENTED CAMP PAGE.
Mon, 9 Sept: After enjoying our five night stay at Hamiltons, including our final morning game drive with Nick, it was time for us to leave and return to Skukuza for our final night in Kruger for 2019. We left using the S125 road to reach the paved H1-3. It was definitely a “giraffe kind of day” as we had so many encounters! It’s fun to watch these gentle giants. We did see a pair of young males “necking” – that is, hitting each other using their necks, but nothing serious occurred. We reached the Skukuza Rest Camp near 3:00P. We found our bungalow and settled in, including re-packing for our return to Johannesburg the following day. By 9:00P, it was time for bed.
Tue, 10 Sept: Prior to returning our rental car at 12:00P, we decided to drive the paved roads to Paul Kruger Gate as well as towards Numbi Gate. We saw lots of game – Ellies, Zebra, Giraffe, Wildebeest, etc. However, we had taken so many pictures, we just enjoyed finding the game and then watching them. We did get a chance to photograph a beautiful male Kudu and couldn’t resist. What better way to end our time in Kruger for 2019 than by taking a photo of its emblem?! We did make our flight back to Johannesburg and spent the evening at The InterContinental reorganizing bags for our flights to Singapore via Doha. We retired early as we had a 4:00A wake-up call for our 8:00A flight.
