Gallery » EUROPE/AFRICA/ MIDDLE EAST » South Africa 2019 » Kruger National Park » Daily Diary in Kruger
BELOW IS A DETAILED, DAILY DAIRY THAT WE WRITE EACH EVENING WHILE IN KRUGER NATIONAL PARK. IF YOU'RE NOT FAMILIAR WITH THE PARK, YOU MAY FIND IT A BIT TEDIOUS SINCE WE NOTE OUR DAILY DRIVING ROUTE (WE USE THIS INFORMATION DURING FUTURE TRIPS). HOWEVER, IF YOU'RE INTERESTED IN READING ABOUT WHAT WE SAW EACH DAY IN THE ORDER IN WHICH WE SAW IT, PLEASE CONTINUE BELOW....
Sat, 2 Mar: We arrived from Johannesburg at approximately 11:00AM. After registering for Park access and picking up our rental car, we headed out a little after 11:30AM. It was a very hot day – already over 100 degrees F (35C) – so we decided to follow the Sabie River driving along the H4-1. We saw an amazing amount of game given the heat. We didn’t go too far – we didn’t reach the Nkhulu picnic area – as we wanted to be at Skukuza Rest Camp near the 2:00PM check-in time. So, it was a leisurely drive which lasted a few hours. Then, we went to Skukuza to get a few groceries and wine. When we finished shopping, we picked up our key and went to our riverside bungalow. It took us a bit to get settled in but since we’re staying in this location for six nights, it was a worthwhile effort. Ed made a delicious dinner featuring carrots & dip and nuts before enjoying some tasty mashed potatoes (yes, we had eaten a lot before we arrived at Kruger). Then, it was time for a nice rest.
Sun, 3 Mar: We were out by about 8:00A after enjoying a quick breakfast. The day began with sprinkles and those and even rain continued throughout the day. We decided to once again take the H4-1 along the Sabie River. Interestingly, there wasn’t as much activity as on the prior day. While we saw some of the “usual suspects” (i.e., Impala), they were not eating but rather hiding under trees to escape from the moisture. Just after passing Nkhulu picnic area, we had a real treat – we saw our first pack of Wild Dogs while in the Kruger. We’ve seen them often in the adjoining reserves on the west of the Park but this time they were well inside the Park. It was a great thrill even though the pack of ~12 individuals was sleeping. They must have enjoyed a nice dinner the previous evening.
After seeing the Wild Dogs, we retraced our route back to Skukuza. Then, we took the H11 toward Kruger Gate until we cut off on the S1 to reach Phabeni Gate. Our goal was to reach the town of Hazyview so that we could buy more groceries and wine. By staying on the S1, we spent more time inside the park rather than using the R536 from the Kruger Gate. It was a good decision as we had to wait for a herd of Buffalo to cross the road. Also, we saw a lone Bull Elephant. Photography was very difficult due to the thick, lush blanket of green grasses and shrubs. Despite not getting great photographs it was still wonderful to see these animals.
After doing our shopping, we returned to the Park and once again entered via the Phabeni Gate. Again, we saw a lot of wildlife, especially bird life. We got some really nice photographs of a Bateleur Eagle; always a thrill! We were back to Skukuza about 4:00PM and we unloaded the car and then took care of a few chores before a great dinner and relaxing for the evening.
Mon, 4 Mar: Again, we were out early as it was a cloudy day but it looked like it might be clearing later in the day. We began our drive south on the H3 in the direction of Berg-en-dahl. We turned off the H3 onto the unpaved S114. It was very, very quiet and we saw only a few Impala along this road. Eventually, we took S112 and returned to the H3. We were headed for Afsaal Rest Area when we spotted some vehicles parked just beyond the area. We joined them and it turned out that a lone Rhino was back in the bush. Patience paid off as he eventually walked into a dry river bed where we were able to get some great pictures. Afterwards, when we were making a U-turn to go to Afsaal, we saw that the road just before Afsaal was blocked by vehicles as another Rhino crossed the road there. Fantastic! It’s so wonderful to see these creatures in the center section of Kruger.
After taking a quick break at Afsaal (which was unusually empty for the time of day), we decided to take the H2-2 unpaved road to Pretoriuskop Rest Camp. It turned out to be a wonderful choice. We had to stop because a lone Bull Elephant was using the road as his private walkway. We took photographs from a distance. When he finally went further into the bush, we were able to get opposite him and take more photographs. What a thrill! Then, we came upon a temporary waterhole that was filled with Buffalo. We took photographs while their numbers continued to grow as they crossed in front of us from the deep, lush greenery that is all over Kruger this year. It was quite the sight! Eventually we eased through on the road as it didn’t seem that the flow of Buffalo was ever going to end.
We returned to Skukuza via the H1-1 paved road. We stopped at Shittlhave dam and found a group of Waterbuck there. Typically they frequent this area as well as Transport dam. When we reached Transport, we again found more Waterbuck but also were entertained by three Hippos who took turns coming up from the water blowing bubbles.
After leaving the H1-1, we returned to Skukuza via the H-3 seeing some of it for the first time as we had gotten off it earlier this morning. Once in Camp, we went to our riverside abode and parked our car. We then walked to The Park Store to buy a couple of cold beers and some pasta for tonight’s meal.
Tue, 5 Mar: We were once again on the road before 7:00AM. It was cloudy but no rain was falling. We weren’t sure if it would clear up and be hot (which puts the animals down somewhat) so we wanted to get going quickly. We decided to go to the Pretoriuskop Rest Camp area by going south on the H-3 and then taking the H1-1 to the camp. Obviously, we had to stop at each of Tranport and Shittlhave waterholes. We saw Waterbuck at both locations. At Transport, we also saw a beautiful Fish Eagle (it looks like an American bald eagle). In between the two waterholes, we took a loop road to see the Nahpe Boulders. It’s an amazing area where granite boulders look like they have been placed on one another by hand. It’s so interesting and the natural beauty is a plus in addition to the wildlife.
When we reached Pretoriuskop Rest Camp, we took a quick break. We then drove a variety of loop roads in the area. The scenery was beautiful but there wasn’t much wildlife to see. We had hoped to see the elusive Sable but it wasn’t going to happen today.
Afterwards, we decided to drive north on the S3. We stopped at the Mestel waterhole and, as we suspected, we found Waterbuck there. We also saw some African Darters (they are fish eaters). When we returned to the S3, we went only a short distance before seeing another beautiful Fish Eagle. Wow!
As we drove further north, a large group of Buffalo was on both sides of the road. The herd had quite a few small babies so it was a treat to see them. We next came upon a fairly large herd of Zebra. The lone male kept most of the herd behind him but we did get nice shots of him. As we continued north, we came across a smaller group of Zebra and with then we saw the first Wildebeest of this trip.
In addition to some really nice game viewing, the scenery on the S3 was really beautiful and we had the road all to ourselves – not a single car passed in either direction.
When we reached the S-1 (the road for the Paul Kruger Gate), we turned east to return back to Skukuza (basically we made a circle through the Park). We had another awesome treat in store on our way back. First, there was a Black-backed Jackal sitting in the tall grass. They are such lovely animals and not often are they not in motion so we sat and enjoyed this creature. Then about 1KM farther along, we saw our first-ever Cheetah in Kruger; exceptional! The Cheetah was lying in the tall grass with only its head showing for the first 10-20 minutes we watched it. Then, it decided to sit up to have a look around. These are such amazing and gorgeous cats; what a treat to see one in Kruger! Our final sighting of the day was a lone Elephant. Well, he wasn’t exactly alone. There was a male Impala that was frozen in place – he was totally oblivious to cars or other animals. So, while we don’t normally take photographs of Impala, this one earned his place into our album.
Afterwards it began to drizzle. Just as we reached our bungalow, the skies opened up. Thankfully, we could watch it all from our thatched patio. It cooled off the day and made for a pleasant evening. We enjoyed a delicious dinner and relaxed until it was time to resume our adventure the following day.
Wed, 6 Mar: We were out of camp a bit earlier today at 7:30AM. We decided to head north as we had been covering mostly southern parts of the Park knowing that we will move north in a few days. We took the H1-2 north from Skukuza with our goal being to reach the Tshokwane Rest Area before returning back on H10 to Lower Sabie Rest Camp and then ultimately returning to Skukuza via the H4-1 along the Sabie River.
Our first encounter with wildlife was seeing two male Baboons walking along the road. Usually we see these creatures in large troupes. We have no idea why these two guys were alone but we did get a nice photo of one. We then did a bit of birding – seeing our first European Roller and a White-backed Vulture group. Then, a real treat – we saw two female Lions lying under trees in the sand. Most of the time they just laid there but one of them actually raised her head a bit and we got an acceptable photo.
We went by a waterhole and again did some birding – seeing a group of White-headed Duck and a lone Swainson’s Spurfowl. We also found a lone Wildebeest. Again, interesting it was alone. As we continued north, we found a pair of Giraffe; lovely. We took a quick break at Tshokwane Rest Area and then headed towards the Lower Sabie. Here we found our first group of Elephants for the day
We next came upon a couple of young male Kudu who were very skittish. About 5KM out of the Lower Sabie Rest Camp, what did we find… a young male Lion. As usual, he initially was sleeping but patience paid off as he finally woke up and looked around. Yeah! After getting our photographs, we took a quick break at Lower Sabie Rest Camp. Then, we began the trek back to Skukuza following along the Sabie River.
We saw a lovely Pied Kingfisher by the river. Then, we had to take a quick break as a group of Elephants was crossing the road to reach the Sabie River for water. Thankfully, the vehicles on the road knew to give the group room so there were no incidents as the group passed. Once the Elephants crossed to the riverside, we were able to take some photographs. A bit farther along, we saw a lone male Giraffe. He was huge! Then, we had a real treat when we spotted a mature male Kudu with gorgeous horns! By now, it was 3:00PM and over 31 degrees so we headed on into Skukuza for some “R&R” time.
Thu, 7 Mar: We left camp at 7:30AM and headed south on the H3. It was a cool, cloudy day at only 23 degrees. We ran into a traffic jam so we knew a cat (Lion or Leopard) had been spotted. It turned out to be two male Lions. One was fast asleep but the other woke up for a few moments and we were able to get a couple of snaps. Afterwards, he too went back to sleep.
After the crowded H3, we decided to head off on gravel roads. We began on the S13 headed south and east. Once we reached the S23, we went due south. It turned out to be a great road. First, we came upon a group of four Rhino in the road. They were very wary and quickly moved into the deep brush. Next, Ed spotted a Wild Dog; once again, amazing! The Wild Dog gathered with other members of its pack. We heard pups crying so perhaps the adults were returning with food (adults regurgitate flesh for the pups). We watched the group and were able to get a few photographs before they settled in the shade under a tree.
We continued a bit farther along and there was a Hyena in the middle of the road. It was oblivious to us as it was licking minerals up. We watched until it finished and then went into the bush. As we continued we came upon a large herd of Zebra that were blocking the road. There were several babies in the group – always a treat to see and photograph. We also saw some Pumba in the road but as soon as they saw us they bolted.
We turned on the H2-2 and were headed back to the paved H3. Interestingly, there was a huge male Rhino right off the side of the road. He wasn’t the least bit bothered by us. We sat near him for about an hour trying to get a shot of his horn. He was continually eating with his head down. Finally, we were able to get a shot when he was eating shorter grasses. This guy was quite the contrast to the Rhino group we encountered earlier.
We took a quick break at Afsaal and then decided to head back to Skukuza. It was now after 12:00 and the temperature was at 30 degrees. As we headed back it was quite except for a group of Giraffe who blocked the road. We returned to camp near 2:00PM and did some shopping at the store to stock up on a few items before leaving the following morning for game viewing and our relocation to the Lower Sabie Rest Camp.
Fri, 8 Mar: Today was very clear and it got hot quickly. We had to pack up the car before leaving as we will be staying at the Lower Sabie Camp for the next two nights. We left near 7:30AM and decided to make a big loop since you can’t check into accommodations until 2:00PM. We left Skukuza on the H11 towards the Paul Kruger Gate and then we turned south on the S65, a new road for us. It was a very slow morning as we didn’t see any game except for a few Impala along this route. We then reached the paved H1-1 heading to Pretoriuskop. We made stops at each of Transport and Shittlhave waterholes once again. There were the usual Waterbuck but we did see a very young one with its mother. Again, this time of year you see lots of babies.
After a quick break at Pretoriuskop Rest Camp, we decided to take the H2-2 to Afsaal. Well, it was not an eventful drive like our previous one on this road. We saw one lone bull Elephant and then farther down the road we came across a few females. The road was in really bad shape and it took us quite a while to traverse it. Eventually we came up to a grader trying to make it smoother. We moved to the side of the road that was done and it was appreciably better. However, our Hyundai 110 began making some terrible noises. Ed surmised there was something wrong with the suspension.
After we got back to the main H3 road we headed north toward Skukuza. The car quit making the noise and drove fine for the most part. It did make some noise when we were in a leftward curve. So, we decided to run by the Skukuza Airport to check-in with Avis. The manager, Natih, said it was best for all concerned that the car by sent back to the Hyundai service center in Nelspruit. He suggested that we return tomorrow at 10:00A to pick up a different vehicle. We agreed to do so as the car was crammed full of gear, including perishable foods, so we wanted to get to Lower Sabie Rest Camp sooner than later. So, paperwork was written up and tomorrow we’ll be picking up a VW Polo.
It was now 2:00PM so we drove directly to Lower Sabie Rest Camp, about 42KM from the airport. We did make a couple of stops to photograph Ellies (South Africans love to shorten names), some Baboons and a herd of Buffalo enjoying a dip in a waterhole.
We checked into Camp at 4:00PM and drove to our “tented” abode. Wow, was it nice! It was actually a safari tent with air-conditioning (thank you as it was 34C!), a beautiful shower/bathroom area and an outdoor kitchen (complete with a separate door and screens to keep Baboons out). This was all on an elevated platform so no creatures could visit during the night.
We got settled in and then Ed began dinner preparations. Lindy went to the Camp Store to purchase some ice (there wasn’t the usual ice tray left in the freezer; just a pitcher of cold water in the frig). When she came back, she also had a large Castle beer to share during happy hour to help unwind from the heat. Wow, another lovely day in South Africa.
Sat, 9 Mar: We were up early so we went to purchase gasoline and had the attendant overfill the tank so it would still be full when we returned the car to the Skukuza Airport. We drove the H4-1 only a short distance to the Sunset waterhole. We spent about an hour there due to the immense amount of activity. We watched Crocodile and Hippos moving in the water. We also photographed a Marabou Stock. Then, Ed was photographing a Gray Heron. We finally figured out that it was standing on the back of a Hippo! What a hoot!! We didn’t take any pictures but there must have been 200 Impala in the area. It was amazing to see the young babies. Since we were sitting with the car turned off, we could hear and watch mother Impala’s call and have their baby return to its side.
As we continued, we came across a small group of Buffalo lying in the side of a creek. In another few hundred meters, there was a larger group of Buffalo sitting in a waterhole. It was only about 25C but they all wanted to cool off.
We arrived at the airport and exchanged our car for a VW Polo (even though they are the same car class, the VW is vastly superior in terms of performance). Then, we were off to drive the dirt road (S30) along the Sabie River opposite the H4-1. Our first sighting was a pair of Saddle-backed Stork on a sandbar in the Sabie River. Then, we saw two Giraffe browsing from the trees in a dry riverbed. Then we saw tons and tons of Impala. We came across a Giraffe with two Warthogs. Finally, these Warthogs didn’t dash away so we got a nice shot of the male. We also watched several groups of Zebra. Once away from the river, the area was a vast plain loaded with lots of tall grass. It was the perfect spot for grazers and perhaps a Cheetah or two as well.
We had hoped to reach the S128 to return directly to the Lower Sabie but somehow (and we don’t know how) we managed to go in a circle and ended up at our starting point on the S30. Our first clue that we had made an error was seeing an animal skull (which we had already photographed) that was resting near a group of Waterbuck. Oh well! On the return route we saw a lovely male Kudu.
So, we returned home again via the H4-1. We did stop to photograph some Elephants that were near the road. Then it was time to return to camp.
While Ed started dinner preparations, Lindy went to the Camp Store to purchase a few items prior to leaving tomorrow. While she was gone, a group of Baboons came into the area and, of course, were looking for food and/or open tent doors. Ed chased them away as best he could but they didn’t go far. When Lindy returned, the Baboons were everywhere. Despite yelling, they had no intention of leaving. So, we had to be on close guard to not let them near our tent door or kitchen door while Ed was cooking. One brazen female actually jumped on the car and tried opening the door. These creatures are too smart and can cause such havoc. Yet, we humans have to be careful because they have huge teeth and don’t mind showing them to you if you get too close.
Sun, 10 Mar: Today was a full day of driving on paved roads leaving from Lower Sabie to Mopani Rest Camp. We packed up the car and left our abode at 7:30AM. We made a quick stop at the Park Store to purchase additional bread. Then, we were off. The day began with birding. We saw a Spurfowl in a tree, an unusual spot during the day so it must have been roosting there in the evening. We also saw a lovely green bird (yet to be identified). Then, it was pretty amazing as we rounded a bend and there was a female lion lying on the sand by the side of the road; talk about timing. We were able to get a couple of shots as she woke up and stood up. She walked a few feet along the road and then plopped down in the tall grass. Unfortunately the car behind us arrived just as she was hidden in the grass. We kept going but that car and others that were behind it stayed in hopes of getting a glimpse of her.
Our next encounter was seeing a group of Rhino with a young calf. It was difficult to know exactly how many but we think there were five Rhino total including the calf. They were deep in the bush but with patience and time we were able to get some nice shots before moving away. We saw several different groups of Elephants. One of the most entertaining groups was splashing about in a waterhole. A good way to cool off as it was well over 33C. We saw some of the usual suspects (Giraffe, Zebra and Wildebeest). We also found a small group of Buffalo. Our final sighting was a group of Ground Southern Hornbill, including an immature chick.
By now it was past 3:00PM and time to head to Mopani Rest Camp, our home for the next three nights. At Mopani, our car was not adjacent to our abode. Instead, we had a long walkway from the parking area that led to our new home. It was a beautiful thatched-roof bungalow set among the rocks; simply lovely!
Mon, 11 Mar: We were up early and on the road by 7:15AM. We decided to explore to the south of the Camp. We began by taking a drive to a crossing of the Tsendze River. Our timing was great as a group of Elephants came to drink just after we arrived. We also were able to photograph a Grey Heron as well as a huge lizard. Afterwards we continued on the same road to an Overnight Hide. No one was there so we went inside and were able to take more photographs of Elephants that continued to come to drink. We also got some shots of Hippos in the river. We continued until we reached Pioneer Dam. Again, there was a hide so we could get out of the car. The dam created a huge lake. We didn’t see any wildlife but we did photograph some waterlilies. We had hoped to proceed north from here but the road was closed so we returned to the main H1-6 highway and continued south. En route back to the H1-6 we came across a group of Giraffe but they were very shy. We did manage a few photographs before the group fled back into the bush.
Once we reached the H14 which went to Phalaborwa Gate, we decided to take it. We saw lots of Elephants in different groups along the route. We then took the S133 south, a gravel road. We came across a group of Buffalo and were able to photograph them. We then took the S131 back to the H14. We drove to the Masorini Ruins and took a quick break there. Then we continued on the H9 to Letaba Rest Camp.
On the gravel road we saw but were unable to photograph a Black-backed Jackal and a Dik-Dik (a tiny antelope). Oh well, you can’t get them all!
We returned to Mopani late in the afternoon after a very enjoyable day. After cleaning up and taking a rest, it was time for an ice cold Castle beer (very tasty) as it was a very hot day.
Tue, 12 Mar: We began our day by stopping at the Mooiplaas waterhole south of Mopani Rest Camp. It turned out to be a great start to the day. There were numerous herds of Zebra and Wildebeest at the waterhole. Then, we had the privilege of seeing three huge, male Elephants. Each was independent of the others but they all came to drink. One was a true “Tusker” which was a great sight to see! We also saw another Black-backed Jackal that we were unable to photograph as it trotted away from the waterhole.
We continued south and took the road to Engelhard Dam. Almost immediately we were surrounded by Elephants. We were careful to avoid any conflict by driving slowly and letting them pass in front or behind our vehicle. We then saw what was so appealing to them – a waterhole right alongside the road. The Elephants were bathing as well as drinking. It was nice to sit and watch them for a bit. We then continued toward the Dam and we took every road in that area! None were signposted once we got onto the 10KM route. We did reach the dam which was massive. However, there was very little access to viewing the water to look for animals. We did drive up to Longwe Lookout (a tough road for our VW Polo) but the view was a bit hazy (typical in Kruger) so we went back the one-lane road we had driven up. Next we took a side road to the Matambeni Bird Hide. We managed to see a gorgeous Goliath Heron as well as lots of Hippos. Inside the Hide, an artist had painted many of the species of birds found in the area. After looking at the paintings, we turned back and the Heron had vanished. Once again, timing is everything in the bush.
We finally made our way back to the main highway by retracing our path (and following lots of loop roads). It was now afternoon and the Elephants were no where to be found. We headed south to Letaba and a quick rain storm passed and cooled us back to 25C (it had been over 30C). After a quick break, we took the S31 to the south side of Enelehard Dam. Again, there were lots of loop roads but limited viewing of the lake itself.
We retraced our way back to the beginning of the road and then headed home to the Mopani Rest Camp. We saw our first Tsessebe (a large, dark brown antelope) in the Kruger. It was crossing the paved road but quickly disappeared in the bush. We had seen that the Rangers at Mopani had seen a Tsessebe on one of their guided walks but we had not known they were in the Kruger until reading the Rangers’ posting. So it was great to see one for ourselves and the perfect way to end our day.
Wed, 13 Mar (Happy 13th!): Today we had to pack up our belongings in anticipation of our move to Shingwedzi Rest Camp which is still further north in the Kruger. When we left camp we decided to first go south once again. We began at the Tsendze River. We made it as far as the concrete bridge but there was a huge Crocodile sunning on it. We decided that as visitors we should leave the Crocodile alone so after taking a photograph, we made a U-turn to retrace our path. When we did so, we were delayed by a group of Buffalo who didn’t want to leave the road.
We continued south on the H1-6 to Klein Nshawu to see animals at the waterhole. We then continued to the S48 and headed to the Malopenyana waterhole. Here we had a real treat as a group of four Tsessebe was there! We got to enjoy them and also take some photographs.
After this event, it was time to return north on the H1-6 to reach the S49 to visit Mooiplaas waterhole. There were plenty of Zebra and Wildebeest there – both drinking and grazing. Then we continued on the S49 until it merged into the S50 and turned north. We saw a lone Buffalo (a “Retired General”) lounging in a small pool as well as lots of Zebra. At a “y” in the road, we choose to take the S143, another gravel road, to the northwest. It turned out to be a great decision as we saw the first Ostrich we have seen on the trip. Then, when we reached Tihongonyoni waterhole we turned off the car and enjoyed watching three lone male Elephants. One was a Tusker who was just leaving. Another was already at the waterhole drinking from a cistern. The other Elephant approached the waterhole but was driven back by the Elephant who was drinking. There was no physical contact but at one point the guy originally at the water was chasing the other Elephant. Ultimately, the one Elephant got nothing to drink and left. We guess the individual who gets to the water first must have some sort of right to it before others can drink.
After this break, we drove until we reached the S144. The signage said “original park road”. Despite it being gravel, we could easily drive 50KM instead of the normal 30-40KM. Ultimately, the road turned onto the H1-6 and we continued north to Shingwedzi. Once on the paved road, we spotted a beautiful bird of prey that we photographed. We also captured a Yellow-billed Hornbill. On the 3KM turnoff to the Camp, we saw a group of Hippos in the water of the Shingwedzi River. A lot of the river was a dry bed so these guys were packed into this remaining waterhole pretty tightly.
Once at Shingwedzi, we quickly checked in and got the keys to our home for the next five nights. Since the area experienced a massive flood in January 2013, the Camp had to be totally rebuilt. We were pleased to find that the kitchen had been moved indoors. It was wonderful for Ed not to be cooking outside in 30C+ temperatures; yeah! Also, the bedroom had a double bed instead of two singles; double yeah (no pun intended)!
After settling in, we enjoyed a wonderful green bean pasta dish and we actually watched some X-Files video on the laptop. It was a nice way to unwind after a long but very productive travel date.
Thu, 14 Mar: We woke up to a very hot morning. So, we decided to get out as quickly as possible and stay in close proximity to camp rather than taking a long ride away from any water source. We left Camp via the main gate. Beside the Shingwedzi River we found a Grey Heron up in a tree. It was an unusual shot which was fun to capture. We also photographed a Blacksmith Lapwing, a lively black and white bird.
Before reaching the main H1-6 road, we turned south towards the Kanniedood Dam. We immediately found a lone Buffalo and spent time watching him graze. We continued on the road to the dam and, interestingly, we saw another road that would take us back rather than having to retrace our path the entire way. When we arrived at the dam it wasn’t what we expected. There wasn’t a lake there but instead some pools that looked like they were part of a river. While we could see some Elephants, the vegetation beside the road was very overgrown and made viewing difficult and photography impossible. We continued on to the Kanniedood Dam Bird Hide. We went inside and we were able to photograph a fast-moving Crocodile in the water. However, it was quiet as far as bird life.
We decided to go no farther south on the S50 road that lies close to the border with Mozambique. Instead, we headed back on the newly found road. We ended up following the River and there we got great views of a group of Elephants on the opposite side of the river. Also, we came upon a group of Ground Southern Hornbill, including a juvenile without the brightly colored head. When we returned to Shingwedzi, we came in via an unmanned gate (the “East Gate”) about four buildings away from our abode. So, a quick loop was accomplished.
We once again drove through Camp and left through the main gate. This time we headed north on the H1-6. We stopped on the bridge over the River but there was no action there. So, we drove north to the S55 loop road. At the end of it, just off the paved H1-6, we found the Lamont waterhole. There was plenty of water – both in a concrete trough and a concrete tank – but no animals.
As we once again drove north on the H1-6, we saw two animals crossing the road. When we got to where they went in, we slowed and… we saw a Leopard! She was just next to the road for only a second so no photographs. But, we have now seen the “Big Five”. We made the assumption the Leopard was female because we believe she crossed with a cub. We spent about 30 minutes slowly driving up and down the side of the road but no additional sightings. As we left the area, we saw kilometer marker 8 so we know where to recheck in the event this is part of her territory.
As we went towards Punda Maria (the northernmost main camp in Kruger), we found a very large herd of Buffalo on the west side of the road. They were grazing and were surrounded by small birds who were likely eating insects that we displaced by the Buffalo. It made for some fun photography. There was also a small waterhole only a few yards away and a couple of Buffalo were enjoying cooling off in it. We then stopped at the Boyela waterhole where we saw one Elephant drinking and another large Elephant who had just finished drinking. He was the larger of the two so we choose to photograph him.
We drove only a little farther to reach the Babalala Picnic Area. We changed drivers there and then returned back to Rest Camp. We again saw the Buffalo but there were no Elephants. We did take time to look for the Leopard where we had previously she her but no luck. Our final stop was at the Lamont waterhole which was again empty. Since it was now well over 30C, we headed back to camp knowing that we would need to get out early again tomorrow.
Fri, 15 Mar: We learned from the individuals who checked us in at Mopani that a two-week school holiday starts today. We also learned that both camps would be fully booked. So, we may be sharing the road with more cars than the occasional one or two that we typically see on any given road up here in the north. When we return to the South, Kruger could be really packed.
We left Camp before 7:00AM. Again, we did the quick loop around it – first out the East Gate and then returning to the main paved road just outside the Main Gate entrance. We saw a Crocodile sunning along the Shingwedzi River. Then, we woke up a group of sleeping Wildebeest. Hey, we were up so it was time for them to join us.
We drove across the Shingwedzi Bridge and finally saw something – a Hamerkop looking for fish. Afterwards, we drove the paved H1-6 south to the Shongololo Loop (S142). We previously had hoped to take this route from Mopani but we somehow kept running into closed roads. So, this was our second attempt and it was successful.
It was pretty quiet with regard to game viewing. However, we enjoyed beautiful scenery at Red Rocks and the Red Rocks Waterhole. We were able to get out of the car which is always a nice break. Our next encounter was a bit unusual – a lone Zebra with a herd of Impala. We guess the Zebra just thought it was part of that family. Next we encountered a group of Giraffe and Zebra. Again, unusual but understandable that the Zebra would want to hang out with the guys who can best view what’s over the horizon.
We stopped at two different waterholes along the route. At one, we found a pair of Saddle-billed Stork, one of our favorites. At the other, there was a group of White-faced Duck along with a tiny but colorful black & yellow bird.
We continued south and we found more Zebra with babies. One had this year’s calf (which she kept hidden behind her). The other had last year’s calf. Both were adorable!
When we crossed the Tsendze River, there was a beautiful Grey Heron fishing. After that, we returned to the H1-6 just south of Mopani. When taking a break in Mopani, we saw two men installing a new thatched roof. It was amazing to watch them install the thatch. There was no safety net so it was a bit scary too.
On the way back we did see another Giraffe on the main H1-6. Once we were on the entry road into Camp, there was a Marabou Crane sitting in the river. It was a long, hot day so we were happy to be back at our abode. After cleaning up, Ed made a mac & cheese dinner and we relaxed and talked about enjoying another great day in the bush.
By the way, we didn’t see any additional cars on the roadway. It was still very, very empty as was Camp when we returned. We can’t see the camping area from our place (it’s often the preferred place to stay), so we’ll check it out tomorrow to see if it is holding the crowds we told will appear.
Sat,16 Mar: We left even earlier today – 6:30AM – and it was only 22C; perfect! We left from the East Gate as soon as we cleared it, there was a herd of Waterbuck grazing on the opposite side of the road. We continued to our left and passed over the River using the causeway. We saw a pair of Yellow-billed Stork and their juvenile chick. We also saw a Crocodile in the water but it was very shy.
We headed north on the H1-7 and turned east on the Mphongolo Loop (the S56). This was a beautiful drive with plenty of pools of water remaining in the river. We photographed a “Retired General” (lone Buffalo) on the opposite side of the Mphongolo River. Then we saw a group of three Buffalo enjoying a drink. We also did some birding. We photographed our first female African Grey Hornbill and, what was really exciting – our first Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah. This bird’s tail is so long – about three times longer than its body – such that the bird has to bob up and down to fly. It’s an amazing sight!
Next we saw a group of Elephants going to the river bottom to get a drink. We couldn’t see them drinking; only how excited they were to be near the water. The trail they were using was downhill and we saw one little one take a tumble. Another came to its rescue, and soon both were off down the hill. A bit farther down the road we saw a second group of Elephants enjoying eating in the deep brush. We also saw two different groups of Giraffe. One was very large and watched us carefully from the dirt road before bolting deep into the bush. The second sighting was a group of three Giraffe across the river at a water pool. We hoped they would go to drink so we waited but they ultimately left without drinking. Our final sighting on this loop road was a nesting Eagle – we think it was a Tawny Eagle. We don’t know if there was a chick in the nest or whether it was preparing the nest but it was definitely on the nest.
When we left the Mphonglolo Loop, we exited near the Boyela waterhole. There were a couple of Elephants taking a mud bath prior to going to drink from the tank. However, photography was very difficult.
We decided to visit the Punda Maria Rest Camp, one of our home’s last year. It was a beautiful drive once we reached the H13-1 and at Camp we spent some time relaxing near the combined reception/shop/restaurant area. Then, we returned back home on the same route but took a quick 5KM drive on the Dzundzwini Loop (a favorite from our time at Punda Maria last year). We saw a huge male Kudu on the loop road. As we continued back south, we saw one more lone male Elephant. We stopped to check the eagle’s nest but there was no mature eagle there.
After purchasing fuel at the petrol station, we finally made our way to the campground. It was definitely not full. The gas attendant predicted that camp would be full over the next weekend. We returned to our abode a little earlier than normal at 2:30P. After doing laundry and taking care of some other chores (downloading photo’s, maintaining this diary, etc.), it was time to enjoy a relaxing evening and happy hour.
Sunday, 17 Mar (Happy St. Patrick’s Day): We were on the road at 6:30AM. We once again left from the East Gate to travel along the Shingwedzi River. When we reached a “Y” in the road, we decided to commit to taking the S50 beyond Kanniedood Dam and drive along the border with Mozambique until we turned inland to take the S143 back across the Olifantspan until reaching the H1-6 to return to Camp. In other words, we made another huge loop.
The day began with mostly birding. It was exciting birding in that we found another Yellow-billed Stork, another Goliath Heron and a new bird for us, an African Openbill. We also saw some Waterbuck and a huge pool of Crocodile. We did stop at the Nyawutsi Bird Hide. We didn’t see any birds there but the setting was beautiful and it was nice to get out of the car. Afterwards on the S50, it was an “elephant kind of day”. We saw a couple of Elephants playing in the Grootvlei Dam. Then we saw two separate family groups and were able to photograph both.
When we turned on the S143, we began seeing groups of Wildebeest and Zebra. As we neared the Tihongonyeni waterhole, there were lots of Ostrich in the area. When we actually got to the waterhole, there were so many Marabou Storks. It was a pretty amazing sight! We sat and watched them and also waited to see if any game would come to the waterhole but none did.
Once we returned to the paved H1-6, we came across two lone male Elephants. The first was deep in the bush so we couldn’t take any photographs. However, the other one was fairly cooperative and we got some nice photographs. Farther north, we hit a “Buffalo roadblock”. After they cleared the road, we were able to get a few photographs as the group headed down an embankment to graze.
Again, we saw another lone Elephant and were able to photograph him before reaching the turnoff for Shingwedzi Rest Camp. When we neared the Camp, we choose not to enter it via the main roadway but instead to drive over the river and then return to Camp via the causeway. We stopped and parked on the causeway to watch some Baboons. However, we had to continue on when a group of Park personnel came up to the bridge. As soon as we turned into Camp, they passed us and it appeared that they might be part of an anti-poaching team. We gave them a thumbs-up and a wave and got lots of waves in return.
We once again drove by the camping area but there were plenty of available spaces and no crowds. We finished the day at the Camp Store before returning to our abode. There we enjoyed our final night relaxing and thinking about all we had seen in this northern section of the Kruger.
Mon, 18 Mar: Today was primarily a travel day as we had to pack our belongings and then head south to Olifants Rest Camp, our home for the next two nights. After dropping off our key, we once again decided to explore the area close to the Shingwedzi River. We went by the River out the East Gate and it was active. There was a large group of Impala as well as a troupe of Baboons. When we started back to Shingwedzi Rest Camp via the loop, there was a huge herd of Zebra and quite a few Giraffe – five to ten. We continued out to the major bridge which crosses the Swingwedzi River. For the first time, we saw wildlife from the bridge – a group of Waterbuck coming to drink. Afterwards we went north and then crossed the Shingwedzi River going south via the causeway. Again, one more loop through the area to enjoy the herds.
Once we began the drive south on the H1-6, we came across a huge herd of Buffalo. Obviously, we stopped to take pictures. We also stopped at a marker for the Tropic of Capricorn. Here on 21 December, it is the longest day of the year (while in the northern hemisphere it is the shortest day of the year).
We next found a group of Elephants trying to stay cool in the shade although they were also enjoying the thick grass and shrubs. We stopped by the Nkokodzi waterhole and there was a lone Bull Elephant there. He had just finished drinking so we were able to get a few shots.
We decided to take a break at Mopani. As we turned onto the access road, there was a group of Tsessebe drinking from water near the road. It was great to see and photograph these huge antelope once again. After our break, we stopped at Mooiplaas and sat and watched the Zebra drinking there. There was one young calf that was sleeping when all the adults left. At first we were scared that it was dead but, thankfully, it finally got on its feet and joined the others. It was a hot day so who can blame the juvenile for wanting to find some cool sand and relax.
At the Klein Nshawu waterhole there was a group of Elephants that were drinking and bathing. We had fun watching, especially the very young elephants. We south and found a couple more groups of Buffalo. We then saw a pair of Brown Snake Eagles high in the trees. Wow, what a treat. Finally, we passed the Olifants Rest Camp so that we could go to the main bridge over the Olifants and see if any animals or birds where there. It was late afternoon and over 35C so it was pretty quiet. However, we did see a couple of male Waterbuck.
We drove back to Olifants Rest Camp and quickly checked-in. We unpacked and got settled in. From our deck we would see and hear Hippos. Most were out of the water having a snack. We went to the Camp Store to pick up a few items, including that cold Castle beer. Due to primate activity, the refrigerators at Olifants are now inside the abode. That was good on a hot day but it took a long time for the frig to cool down due to the items we brought from Shingwedzi. However, after putting the beer in the freezer for 30 minutes it was perfect. At 6:00PM, we drank it outside while enjoying the Hippos. Since it was still 30C+, we went inside to have happy hour and relax. We came back out at about 7:00PM, and Ed prepared a pasta dinner. The power went out briefly but we did manage to get dinner cooked. FYI, South Africa was going through rolling power outages that we heard about via the newspaper and from Camp staff. We believe it may be related to the heatwave but can’t say for sure. We were just thankful that our stove and frig were working!
Tue, 19 Mar: Lindy woke up at 3:30A and the Camp was without power. It’s so dark in the bush. Thankfully, we always have flashlights near the beds. The power came back up (or the generator was turned on) at 5:00AM. Since the Gate to Camp opens at 5:30A, that gave individuals time to make coffee and/or breakfast before heading out. We were up and about but didn’t leave Camp until 7:00AM.
We stopped at the bridge over the Olifants and saw Waterbuck once again. Then, we decided to take the S39 south along the Timbavati River. The road was really rough and it was very slow going. Also, we saw very few animals – just a few birds until we were about 20KM down the road. We continued to the Timbavati picnic area and just before we arrived there, we were rewarded by having huge male Buffalo pass beside and in front of our car. He had just had a mud wallow. Again, timing can be everything.
After taking a break, we took the S127 back to the main H1-4. We took this paved road south to Satara. We saw some of the herds of Zebra and Wildebeest that we typically see there. As we returned back north, we saw a lone Bull Elephant. He didn’t have huge tusks but he was massive. Shortly down the road, we saw another two male Elephants. We also spotted some Elephants in the distance under the trees. As the day got hotter (34C), we saw fewer animals. The main feature was Giraffes. Again, we stopped at the bridge over the Olifants. We were rewarded by seeing a herd of Elephants in the middle of the river. After crossing the river, we went to a view spot. It wasn’t quite as nice as being on the river – something we recalled once we were there.
We returned to Camp in the afternoon. We were ready to shower and relax till it was time to enjoy our evening cocktail. Of course, we did attend to downloading photographs, writing this diary, etc., etc.
Wed, 20 Mar: Today we had to return south to Skukuza, our home for our final two nights in Kruger (for this trip; we’re back again in August). We stayed on the primary paved road, the H1-4 which in turn becomes the H1-3 (south of Satara) and the H1-2 south of the Tshokwane Picnic area. Just before reaching the bridge crossing the Olifants River, we found a beautiful Black-Chested Snake Eagle. It was a great way to begin the morning!
Of course, we couldn’t cross the Olifants River without stopping and getting out of the car to see what we could spot. Some of regulars (Impala, Waterbuck) were there. However, the real treat was seeing a pair of Goliath Heron. One was in a pool fishing while the other was out one of the many islands. Wow, simply amazing! As we were leaving the bridge, we saw a couple of Giraffe enjoying a morning snack in one of their usual spots.
As we continued South, the gaming was steady. We saw Buffalo, a pair of Ostrich as well as a White-backed Vulture. Then, a lone Marabou Stork high in a tree. About half-way between Olifants and Satara, we a lone Bull Elephant that had recently taken a mud bath. He walked alongside the road for a bit so we were able to get some nice pictures.
We stopped at the Ngotso Dam and there was a group of Elephants there enjoying a drink and cooling off in the water. Yes, another hot day. After enjoying this group, we continued on to Satara Rest Camp where we took a break. The Camp had been empty on our prior visits; now there were a lot more cars so the school holiday guests had begun to arrive.
As we left Satara on the H1-3, we found a lot of Giraffe and different groups of Zebra. One small group blocked the road as they were crossing (and, of course, we gave them right of way). We did see one female with her calf nursing. That was a real treat! We decided to take a tiny detour on the S125 to see a Baobab tree. It was lovely albeit still somewhat small but it was probably still several hundred years old.
We returned to the H1-3 and reached the Tshokwane Rest Area. By now, it was afternoon and the place was really crowded. So the combination of being in the southern part of Kruger as well as having public school holidays meant lots of people. We continued and then turned off on the H12 to cross the Sabie River. From the bridge we saw a Waterbuck as well as a group of Elephants cooling off in the water. Then, we were back in “civilization” on the H4-1 as we reached Skukuza Rest Camp.
Check-in was crowded but still relatively quick. We went to our abode by the Sabie River and settled in for our brief two-night stay. There was a bit of excitement as there was a large snack that went from bungalow 90 to bungalow 93 (we were in bungalow 92). It was quite large and a group of people followed it until it hid near the trash cans at bungalow 93. A local ranger (not a park ranger) saw the crowd and came over. Eventually, using a stick, he extracted the snack and then took it to the river and released it. The fellow said it was venomous but not a Mamba as some of the crowd had thought. So, that was our late afternoon entertainment.
As the crowd dispersed, Ed prepared dinner and we enjoyed a refreshing gin & tonic followed by a delicious meal.
Thu, 21 Mar: Today we decided to make a loop tour in the Skukuza area. We left Skukuza on the road to the Phabeni Gate. We then turned off ono the unpaved S4 to reach the S3 along the Sabie River. Well, this turned out to be a poor choice and we remembered we had made this mistake on a prior visit. There was absolutely no major wildlife to be seen in the area. You could see homes and/or guest houses across the river but no Impala, no Giraffe, no Zebra, etc., etc. We suspect that this area is just too close to civilization and that the animals have relocated farther into the Park to escape from poaching.
As we turned south on the S3 and crossed close to the Phabeni Gate enroute to Pretoriuskop Rest Camp, we finally came upon Giraffe and a lone Bull Elephant. We also photographed a White-backed Vulture sitting in a tree. When we entered Pretoriuskop Rest Camp we were shocked; the place was absolutely jammed. When we had been there earlier in our trip, we were the only car in the parking lot! So, we now know to be aware of school holidays.
We returned back to Skukuza on a familiar route – the paved S11. We took time to stop and enjoy each of Shittlhave Dam and Transport Dam. After relaxing at these spots, we continued on the main road. Interestingly, we saw a pair of Ground Southern Hornbill in a tree which was a first for us as we typically see them on the ground. When we reached the H3, we continued north back to Skukuza Rest Camp. We then took time to download photographs, work on this diary, etc. before beginning to pack in preparation for tomorrow’s departure.
We relaxed and enjoyed this final night in Kruger for this trip.
Fri, 22 Mar: We had a relaxing morning and then drove to the airport and returned our rental car. Unfortunately, the Avis representative said we had a small scratch on the front lower bumper that had not previously been reported. So, we took a photograph and he filled out a claim form. Thankfully we have rental coverage and the scratch was minor so the incident didn’t impact our trip at all. We’ll once again be renting from Avis in August. We enjoyed our short flight back to Johannesburg with a cold beer and snacks and a “clink, clink” to the Kruger. Once in Johannesburg, we spent the night at The InterContinental in anticipation of the next portion of our trip.
